
Class ^.fj7^^^^^_ 



PRr-;.sr:.\Ti:[) nv 



HISTORICAL GUIDE //vo 

33^ 



TO 



CHATTANOOGA 



LOOKOUT MOUNTAIN, 



WITH 



DESCRIPTIONS OF THE BATTLES, BATTLE-FIELDS,* CLIMATE, 
INDUSTRIES, MINERALS, TIMBER, ETC. 



Profusely Illustrated. 



BY 

GEORGE C. CONNOR, 

Fofi NEARLY Twenty Years a Residekt 
OF THE City. 



-!^^1889+^i- 






vvt* 



/r C/~ LyC/ytyU^ 



i^Ja '09 



TO THE STRANGER. 



In the preparation of this Guide to Chattanooga and its Environs, the anthor 
has been animated by one desire above all others — To tell the truth ! This he 
has tried to do to the best of his ability, avoiding the language of exaggeration, 
so common in publications of this class. 

Strangers visiting this city may rely upon the information given herein. We 
have gathered it with great care, and have winnowed the facts. It has been a 
labor of love, and conscientious earnestness. Sincerely desiring a solid, con- 
servative and permanent growth for the city that contains our home, we have 
carefully rejected all statements that tended to mislead the enquirer. 

This GUIDE is a private venture of the author. It contains no advertise- 
ments, no puffs, no unmerited commendations. We have written without em- 
barrassment, being under obligations to no one. At first we offered to insert 
certain cuts free of charge, but as aoon as the owners began to feel that they 
were doing us favors we abandoned the intention. We are, therefore, indebted 
for patronage or favors to no one. 

This much is due the stranger and the author. The Guide is now submitted 
to. the consideration of those who may desire to know and understand Chatta- 
nooga. 

(6) 



CHATTANOOGA, 



On the southern bank of the Tennessee River, in Hamilton Connty, Tenne» 
Bee, at the mouth of a valley formed by Missionary Ridge on the east and Look- 
out Mountain on the west, nestles the city of Chattanooga, famous as "Ross* 
Landing " when the Cherokees inhabited the surrounding mountains, and with 
its present name in the annals of the late War Between the States. 

The city lies in a basin, with mouutain walls so securely protecting it that its 
fruit seasons are equal to those of TVest Point, Georgia, a point fully 150 mileg 
farther south ; fully four weeks in advance of Cincinnati, and nearly two weeks 
in advance of IsTashville and KJioxville. 

Rising 1,700 feet above the beautiful Tennessee River, that for miles laves the 
streets of the city, world-famed Lookout Mountain lifts its hoary head, its 
"point" of sheer and solid rock, standing out like a mighty sentinel to guard 
against the approach of evil influences to the pretty valleys on either side. Be- 
yond the river are Raccoon Mountain and Walden's Ridge, and through the 
chasm which separates these the Tennessee flows out reluctantly from the valley 
in which it has lingered to plunge through the mountains that separate us from 
Sequachee. On this side the river is the abrupt elevation known as Cameron 
Hill, bedecked with cottages, and around its base spreads out the giant city, with 
broad avenues that are reasonably well shaded, with its tall spires on house? 
dedicated to the worship of God, its busy and crowded thoroughfares, its out- 
reaching arms of steel on which trains are darting hither and thither, its numer- 
ous factories whose smoke hangs over them like a veil, and its pretty houses 
perched upon the eminences that range around the business quarter. 

Chattanooga is peculiarly located. It stands at the apex of an inverted tri- 
angle, whose diverging lines extend into the far northeast and northwest. The 
mountain walls ward off the colder blasts of winter, while they form a funnel 
through which sweep, from the opposite direction, the cooling breezes of summer. 
These mountains surrender their bosoms to early fruit raising — peaches, grapes 
and strawberries, and to early vegetables of every name. There is no city of 
the Union more attractively surrounded by scenery, or one more liberally pro- 
vided with habitable mountain tops. 

And now, with these few words by way of generalization, let us examine 
this remarkably prosperous city in detail. And first, 

HISTORICAL. 

The country extending from the Little Tennessee and Clinch Rivers, on the 
north, to tJie Muscle Shoals on the south, and to the Chattahoochee River on the 
east, was once inhabited by that most warlike tribe of the southern Indians, 

(7) 



Historical Guide to Chattanooga 




CHATTANOOGA AND THE BATTLE FIELDS. 



AND Lookout Mountaik. 9 

the Cherokees. Soon after the settlement of the State of Tennessee this tribe 
was subdued by the white man, and peaceful relations were ever after main- 
tained. 

About the year 1817, the American Board of Commissioners for Foreign Mis- 
sions established a missionary school for the education of the rising generation 
of the Cherokees, six miles east of Chattanooga, on the Chickamauga. They 
called it Brainard, in memory of the Rev. David Brainard, an honored mission- 
ary to Indians in former years. In 1819 a treaty was made with the Cherokees, 
whereby they ceded all that territory lying between the Hiawassee and Little 
Tennessee Rivers, and all of their lands lying north of the Tennessee River, in- 
cluding that part of Hamilton County lying north of that river. 

In the latter part of 1835, another treaty was made with these Cherokees, 
whereby they ceded to the United States all the country they owned east of the 
Mississippi River, including portions of Georgia, Alabama and Tennessee, for a 
tract of country west of the State of Arkansas and a bonus of five millions ol 
dollars. This was called the treaty of New Echota, and was made by the Rev. 
Mr. Schemerhorn, on the part of the United States, and the people of the Chero- 
kee Nation, as it was alleged, on the other part. The great majority of the 
nation, headed by their chief, John Ross, refused to agree to the treaty, and 
made strenuous efforts to have it abrogated or modified ; but the powers were 
against them, and they had to yield. In the fall of 1838 the last of the race 
bade farewell to their native hills and set their faces toward the setting sun. 

The site of the present city of Chattanooga was formerly known as Ross' 
Landing, and after the removal of the Indians it soon assumed the proportions 
of a trading town, being the entrepot for the products of East Tennessee, and 
the point from which supplies were drawn for the new settlements of North 
Georgia and Eastern Alabama. In 1836 it was made a military post, four com- 
panies of Tennessee Volunteers, in the service of the United States, being 
stationed here. These were soon afterward relieved by a portion of the regular 
army. 

The settlement began in 1835, when there was only a foresi, and a primitive 
ferry maintained by the Indian Chief, John Ross, and in a log hut a tavern, kept 
by mine host, Mr. Daniel Henderson. In 1837 a post-office was established, with 
John P, Long as postmaster, and the mail came from Rossville on horseback. 
Later in the year the establishing of the stage line between Murfreesboro, Tenn., 
and Augusta, Ga., gave the ''Landing" office more importance, and letters were 
actually received from 'Washington, D. C, within ten days after date. 

The struggles of those early times were with natural surroundings and white 
depravity, the Indians giving the settlers scarcely any trouble whatever. The 
Cherokees were brave and true to their treaties, and perhaps less treacherous 
than any of the aboriginal tribes. The few citizens who remain and have mem- 
ories of those early days tell us quaint stories, which lack of space only forbids 
us to relate. It may be interesting to record, however, that necessity was never 
more certainly the "mother of invention" than when TV. L. Dugger, as a lad, 
dragged the timber from Market street to the brick kiln, on Mulberry, with a 
yoke of oxen, hitched to grape-vines instead of to chains. 



10 Historical Guide to Chattanooga 

In 1838, the town was laid out, when the name Chattanooga was selected, 
after a lively contest, which occurred in the log school-house that stood on the 
corner of Fifth and Lookout streets. Lookout City and Montevideo were the 
names supported by a minority of the citizens. The meaning of " Chattanooga" 
is unknown. The Cherokees have a tradition that it is the name another race 
gave to the valley, and also to what we call Lookout Mountain, before they 
came, and that the Cherokees adopted it without enquiry as to its meaning. 

The boundaries of the town, as fixed in 1838, were as follows : On the east by 
Georgia avenue, and on the west by Cameron hill ; on the north by the Tennes- 
see River, and on the south by what was then James street, but now known as 
West Ninth. The land thus enclosed measured 240 acres. 

In 1840, Market street was surveyed, and Tom Crutchfield, Sr., received the 
timber standing thereon as compensation for opening it. With the timber thus 
cut he burned the first kiln of bricks on Mulberry street, now known as Broad, 
and began the erection of two brick residences, one for James A. Whiteside and 
the other for Dr. Milo Smith. 

The year 1840 was one of melancholy memories to those sturdy pioneers. 
The Tennessee River rose to a great height in the month of June, and when the 
corn was in tassel overflowed the lowlands, and destroyed the crops. This de- 
struction of vegetation poisoned the air with malaria when the waters receded. 
A malarial fever immediately broke out, and it soon became epidemic. Before 
long there were not enough healthy people to wait upon the sick. 

Of those early days there remain (1889) only William Crutchfield and George 
W. Snodgrass, whose cabin on the battle-field of Chickamauga— or Chick-um-au- 
ga, as the Indians pronounced it — has been made famous. 

In 1843 the Legislature took a vote on selecting Chattanooga as the State 
capital. It was carried in the House, but was lost in the Senate by a majority 
of two. The capital was then fixed at Nashville. In 1852 the first City Council 
was chosen, and Dr. Milo Smith was elected Mayor. 

It may be important to remember that as early as 1828 a steamboat, called 
the ''Atlas," was run between Muscle Shoals and Knoxville, and that in 1831 the 
"Knoxville" ran between the same points, and went even higher into East Ten- 
nessee than the city of Knexville. 

Quite early in the settlement of Chattanooga there was regular communica- 
tion by river with New Orleans, except a portage of forty miles around Muscle 
Shoals, on which a railroad had been built and operated by horse power, between 
Tuscumbia and Decatur. By this means Chattanooga was enabled to supply 
the northern counties of Georgia and Alabama with groceries cheaper than from 
any other point, which, with her East Tennessee productions, gave her a com- 
manding and growing trade. 

The first effort at iron manufacture was made about the year 1850. Mr. Hol- 
lister, a practical iron master, visited the place, made* an examination of the 
ores and the coal, and was pleased with the prospect. He raised a company 
and the necessary capital, went North and perfected plans and specifications, 
but on his way back took sick and died at Charleston. This ended the enter- 
prise. Shortly after this the foundry and car works of the East Tennessee Iron 



AND Lookout Mountain. 11 

Manufacturing Company was established, which was afterward bought out bj 
Thomas "Webster. The same company erected a blast furnace on the river bank 
near the bluff, which was afterward leased by James Henderson, of New Jersey, 
but owing to the want of skill and capital proved a failure. The steam foundry 
of John Gr. Bynum was a success, as was also the pork-packing establishments 
of Chandler & Co. and Joseph Ramsey. The flouring mill of C. E. Granville, 
with a capacity of fifty barrels a day, and the flouring mill and distillery of 
Bell & Co., with a capacity of 150 barrels of flour and 60 barrels of whisky a 
day, were successful until destroyed by the war. 

During the "War. 

"When the unfortunate civil war began Chattanooga was little more than a 
straggling village, although it had been dignified by a Mayor and Board of 
Aldermen duriug the nine years preceding. Its citizens were divided on the 
secession of the State, and such bitterness as usually attends religious and po- 
litical discussions resulted. Houses were divided against themselves. 

After Shiloh Chattanooga received the sick and wounded of the Confederates, 
and after the Fort Donelson defeat the importance of the place from a strategic 
standpoint was recognized by the Confederate Government. Henceforward it 
was a depot for supplies. It was attached and again detached as different gen- 
erals came into command of departments. But it did not asuume its greatest 
importance until Bragg's army came from Tupelo, Miss., and began preparations 
for the movement into Middle Tennessee and Kentucky in 1862. 

Hospitals were scattered here and there, and prisoners were guarded until 
exchanged or sent to other prisons farther south. The campaign of General 
Kirby Smith into Kentucky withdrew attention from Chattanooga until Bragg's 
retreat after Perryville. "When Bragg returned to Middle Tennessee Chatta- 
nooga was his base of supplies, and the army and floating population became 
treble the number it was at the opening of the war. 

During that time the brilliant but erratic Henry A. "Waterson, now the editor 
of the Louisville Courier- Journal, edited in this city the ''Chattanooga Rebel," a 
daily paper without a counterpart in English literature ; a thorn in the flesh to 
General Bragg, a tonic and delight to the rank and file of his army. 

In the last weeks of June, 1863, Rosecrans made a vigorous movement on 
the Confederate right flank which compelled Bragg to fall rapidly back from 
Shelbyville upon Chattanooga, the natural gateway from Tennessee to the At- 
lantic coast. Rosecrans halted at McMinnville and "Winchester, and awaited 
Burnside's march upon Knoxville. Bragg reached Chattanooga on July 7th, 
and Rosecrans reached Bridgeport, the railroad crossing of the Tennessee, on 
August 29th. Those outside of the councils of the army innocently supposed 
Chattanooga could not be captured by the Federals. 

TWO IMPORTANT EVENTS. 

One of the most successful steps toward the obliteration of the animosities, 
and the healing of the wounds of the late war, was taken by the Ladies' Con- 
federate Memorial Association when they invited the Federal garrison of this 



12 Historical Guide to Chattanooga 

post to unite with the veterans of the Confederacy in laying the comer-stone of 
the Monument to the Confederate Dead. 

It was a charming sunny day, that 10th of May, 1877, when the long proces- 
sion of Freemasons, Knights Templar, ex-Confederates, citizens and the Ladies' 
Memorial Association moved down Market and up Sixth streets, en route to the 
Confederate Cemetery, led by the baud of Col. "Wheaton's regiment, U. S. Army, 
and Company C of the same, commanded by Capt. Cochran. And when that 
United States military band entered the densely shaded City of the Dead, fol- 
lowed by a company of U. S. troops, with arms reversed, there was not a dry 
eye nor a disloyal heart in the vast throng assembled around the base of the 
monument, or in the long procession that moved up the avenue. And such a 
procession at such a time was possible in Chattanooga only. 

The next important event was of a like character. The Society of the Army 
of the Cumberland decided to hold its annual reunion in the city of Chattanooga 
during Chickamauga week, September 21 and 22, 1881. The writer of this 
pamphlet conceived the idea of organizing a society of, ex-Confederate soldiers 
to extend a soldierly greeting to the Society of the Army of the Cumberland on 
the occasion of its visit to us. His most sanguine expectations were realized, a 
large society was organized, and ex-Confederates of every grade, from general 
to private, wrote letters of approval and concurrence. The society chose J. B. 
Cooke to be president, D. M. Key and J. A. Caldwell to be vice presidents. G. C. 
Connor lo be secretary, and W. TV. Jackson to be treasurer. S. A. Key was 
unanimously chosen to deliver the address of welcome, and by joint action of 
the local committee and this society, Cameron Hill was selected as tke most ap- 
propriate spot for the ceremonies. 

All arrangements were completed when the flash of the telegraph announced 
"President Garfield is dead." It was nearly midnight of September 19th when 
the tolling bells announced the awful calamity. The programme was in the 
hands of the printer; the buildings were rapidly assuming their gay decorations; 
visitors were beginning to arrive ; all was bustle and expectation. In an instant 
a cloud of gloom settled upon every heart. Crape was silently and tearfully 
pinned to the national colors. The publication of the joyous programme was 
suspended, and a call issued for a joint conference at ten o'clock the following 
day. 

Next morning the assembly hall was filled with ex-Confederates and Feder- 
als, bowed with grief, and solicitous of doing nothing inappropriate to the 
solemn surroundings. The Society of the Army of the Cumberland decided to 
hold only the briefest sessions, and the ex- Confederates proposed that the pro- 
gramme adopted for Thursday be carried out on Cameron Hill, the banners and 
badges draped in mourning, and the ceremonies of the greeting and flag-raising 
to be succeeded by requiem services. This was unanimously adopted. The 
Confederates next proposed to surrender their reunion, appointed for Thursday 
afternoon, and invited the Army of the Cumberland to unite with them at that 
hour in a Union Memorial Service. This invitation was cordially accepted. 

The sun rose into a cloudless sky on Thursday, September 22, 1881. All 
trains entering the city were packed with visitors. Hundreds came by all kinds 



AND Lookout Mountain. 13 

of conveyances on the public roads, and by 10 o'clock there were not less than 
ten thousand strangers in the city. The headquarters of both armies were 
crowded, and the Reception Committees found it no srdall matter to keep up the 
registers. 

Promptly at 11 o'clock the two columns were formed at the points announced. 
At 11.30 these columns united into a grand procession, led by the band of the 
Fifth Artillery, U. S. A. 

The sad death of our beloved President reduced the numoer of represeiita 
tives more than one-half. Thousands were en route to our city, in hopes of hav- 
ing a jollification of the mi)st patriotic and exhilarating kind, but turned back 
when they heard of the pall that settled down on Elberon. It did not occur to 
them that this very sadness would add to the effects of the extraordinary exer- 
cises devised for them in Chattanooga. They thought only of mirth and rejoic- 
ing at such a gathering, while the people of Chattanooga, with tearful eyes, 
were draping their homes with mourning, and exchanging the entertaiments 
and amusements for a requiem and a funeral. 

The ceremonies on Cameron Hill we describe in the "Tour of the City," but at 
4 o'clock in the afternoon memorial services were held in the court-house square by 
apppointment of the societies of both armies. An immense throng again assem- 
bled and listened to addresses by Gen. Wheeler and Rev. J. W. Bachman, from 
the Confederates, and Gen Cox, of Ohio, and Gen. Willard "Warner, from the 
Federals. Hon. D. M. Key presided. 

This union meeting appointed the following committee, after adopting suit- 
able resolutions, to attend the obsequies of the President, in Cleveland, on tho 
following Monday, viz. : Maj. A. H. Pettibone, Maj. G. C. Connor, Capt. J. M. 
Thornburg, Capt. M. H. Clift, Capt. H. S. Chamberlain, Rev. Col. J. 'W. Bach- 
man and E. A. James. The committee met and elected A. H. Pettibone, who 
was a classmate of the President, chairman, and G. C. Connor, secretary. 

On the evening previous to these ceremonies Judge R. H. Cochran, of Wheel- 
ing, W. Ya., delivered the official oration before the Society of the Army of tho 
Cumberland, So truly did it present the feelings of the ex-Confederates that, 
they unanimously requested it for publication. 

S^"At this writing (May, 1889) preparations are again being made for an- 
other reunion of the Society of the Army of the Cumberland, in Chattanooga, 
September next. Our people will welcome those brave men as heartily now as- 
they did in 1881. 

POINTS OF WAR INTEREST. 

The march of progress, we are happy to say, has blotted out nearly all of 
the landmarks of the occupations during the civil war. The mighty earthworks 
have nearly all been leveled, and Forts Wood and Kegley have given place to 
residences. The trenches have disappeared by the processes of erosion, and 
only in memory do the forts, lunettes, redoubts and batteries announced in Gen- 
eral Order No. 63, April 27, 1864, exist. 

On the eminence east of the town palatial residences are blotting out every 
trace of Fort Wood. The huge earthwork that stood on the rising ground west. 



14 Historical Guide to Chattanooga 

of the Rossville road, near Montgomery avenue and the Stanton House, has left 
a few traces, but they will soon disappear. Cameron Hill has had the wrinkles 
of forts and redoubts smoothed out of its summit and bosom, and the "old res- 
ervoir," so often quoted, has turned to dust. 

Department headquarters, established by Gen. Rosecrans, and continued by 
Gen. Thomas, is now known as 316 "Walnut street, and it was there Thomas 
welcomed Grant on October 23, 1863. There the battle of Missionary Ridge was 
planned by Grant, Thomas and Sherman. At 302 Walnut street was the office 
of the adjutant general, and at 326 "Walnut was the headquarters of the chief of 
artillery. Gen. Brannan. Around the corner, on First street from Walnut, at 
llo. 110, was Sherman's headquarters. At 19 Bast Fourth was the office of the 
provost marshal general of the Army of the Cumberland. 

These buildings have been but slightly changed since the days of their mili- 
,tary occupancy. We quote them here for the information of the members of the 
Army of the Cumberland who are continually visiting the city. 

The removal of the heavy forest growth from Cameron Hill and from various 
parts of the city changes the aspect from what was seen by the Confederates 
when they evacuated, and by the Army of the Cumberland immediately after 
the disaster of Chickamauga, and only certain buildings remain as landmarks of 
forts and hospitals. Ex-Confederates will remember the residence as the head- 
quarters of Gen. Bragg, and the large building and fine grounds on the corner 
of Pine and Sixth as the headquarters of Gen. D. H. Hill. This was Gen. Mc- 
pherson's headquarters in Federal days. 

The marking of places by the erection of tablets is not to be commended, 
since they would be memorials of a fractricidal strife that should be forgotten as 
soon as possible. The descendants of the gallant men on both sides should not 
be perpetually reminded that their fathers once were enemies. 

An Historic House. 

On the comer of Market and Fourth streets stands a three-story brick build- 
ing, the first erected in Chattanooga, and perhaps the only landmark of those 
early days with a pathetic history. Indeed, its seamed, bolted and battered ap- 
pearance suggests an enquiry to every visitor. 

This building was erected in 1840, and is now used by the city for its Council 
chamber, its city offices, and police headquarters. It has been so used since 
1883, the year it was purchased by the city. For six years previously it was 
used by the county for like purposes. 

Prior to the war the ground floor was used as stores, the second floor as sleep- 
ing apartments, and the third as a Masonic hall. When the Confederates occu- 
pied the city they converted the upper floors into a prison, and the lower one 
was occupied as military offices, especially by the provost marshal. There were 
oaken floors laid above, to add security to the prison, and into these floors were 
driven staples and rings, to which chains were attached, and to the chains the 
shackles of the unfortunate prisoners were fastened. The prisoners, thus 
chained, were of all classes; spies, deserters, traitors to the Southern cause, and 
criminals. Even after making allowances for exaggeration, the stories told of 



AND Lookout Mountain. 15 

those gloomy rooms are most harrowing. Out of them went gallant fellows to 
be shot as spies and as ''traitors/' and criminals to suffer the just decrees of 
broken laws. The records are lost, and we are glad that they are. 

When the Confederates evacuated and the Federals came into possession the 
tables were turned sure enough, and guards and informers became prisoners, to 
be watched and punished by those who stood in terror of incarceration only a 
few weeks before. Spies, deserters and criminals still lay chained to the floor, 
and brave as well as bad men went to their death as before. 

Early in 1864 the block of buildings adjoining the house on the south caught 
fire, and was destroyed. During the fire a Confederate, charged with being a 
spy, succeeded in getting out upon the roof, and by superhuman efforts saved 
his prison. He was released next day for his gallantry. 

The close of the war returned this building to its owners in a dilapidated 
condition, and it was variously used until October, 1877, when it was purchased 
by the county for court-house purposes, at a cost of $10,000. Something over 
$7,000 worth of repairs were made. When the court-house was finished this 
building was vacated, and the city bought it in January, 1883, paying only 
$6,000. Changes and repairs were made which have brought it to its present 
appearance; unsightly architecturally, but a landmark worthy of preservation. 

A GREAT PROSPERITY. 

After the disorders that followed the close of the war had ended, and honest 
government had assumed control, Chattanooga began to struggle into the light. 
A mighty effort was made by those interested in the Alabama & Chattanooga 
Railway to practically remove the business of the city south of the Western & 
Atlantic Railroad. The Stanton House was built, the foundation of an im- 
mense opera-house was laid, a large railway station was erected, and that part 
of Market Street was thoroughly macadamized. For a time success crowned 
the effort; and then came the big fire in 1870, which swept away the "shanties 
and shebangs " along the west side of Market. At the same time the Alabama 
<fc Chattanooga Railway Company faiJed, and with it failed the scheme for re- 
moval. The Stanton House remains, but the opera-house foundation is occu- 
pied by a freight-house, and the great wooden station-house has long since been 
pulled down. The ''shanties and shebangs" were gradually supplanted by 
handsome brick stores. 

Not until the eighties was the future of Chattanooga assured beyond the pos- 
sibilities. In 1887 there came a marrellous wave of prosperity. To be sure it 
had its exaggerations and some nnhealthiness, but progress has been continuous 
ever since. ISTow we are indeed assuming metropolitan airs. We have all the 
conveniences of advanced civilization, and all the appliances necessary to build 
up a solid, healthful, beautiful city. Our location has wrought wonders in our 
behalf. 

Ex-Mayor Hewitt, of New York City, made this city a visit in April last, 
and predicted that a million and a half of people would occupy these valleys 
and swarm upon their mountain walls long before the close of the twentieth 



16 Historical Guide to Chattanooga 

century. Mr. Jay Gould expressed the opinion, while standing on the "Point" 
last winter, that we would have one hundred thousand souls before the close of 
nineteen hundred. 

The negro problem is creating some anxiety among thoughtful citizens, but 
the influx of Americans from the N'orth, and of foreigners from Germany and 
Ireland, will solve that problem. The writer will not live to see the pres^iiiig 
southward of that unfortunate race by this invasion from the north and from 
beyond seas. But the negro has been pressed southward from New England, 
and his destiny is as assuredly southward as was the Indian's destiny westward. 
"Within fifty years the negro will be as infrequent in the valleys of Chattanooga 
and Lookout as he now is in the valley of the Genuessee in New York. 

Chattanooga is thoroughly cosmopolitan. All good people who desire to 
make an honest living are sought after. The gates of the city swing inward 
to welcome all such, for the commingling of the blood of northerner and south- 
erner will produce the most vigorous race known to the annals of humanity. 
Such a race will have but one Law, one Union, one God 1 

THE CLIMATE. 

Most important of all attractions to persons seeking a desirable place of resi- 
dence is the climate of Chattanooga. Think of a spot where it is cool in sum- 
mer and warm in winter — the mountain walls that ward off the winter's chilly 
blasts from the north form funnels, through which the gentle breezes in summer 
from the southwest sweep through the valley by day, and especially by night. 
This condition of natural surroundings makes the heat from the sun bearable by 
day and the rest at night sweet and refreshing in summer. In winter the moun- 
tains and ridges fold their arms around the city and protect it from the cruel 
blasts of what the white flags, with black squares in the center, represent as 
cold waves. 

A prominent physician, who came to this city from his home in Massachu- 
setts because of lung troubles, said this in a public lecture : 

"Who among us is not mindful of the rich delights of our usual March cli- 
mate ? March ! that month of terror in other latitudes, brings us the blossoms 
of spring in rich profusion, the working days in our gardens and flower-beds, 
and gives us a noonday warmth of 80 degrees, while the coolness of night rarely 
causes the mercury to fall to 40. April follows with its luxuriant wealth of 
flowers in field, forests, and lawn ; the rich and varied verdure of the mountain 
slopes; the grand picnic days; the profusion of blossoming laurel and azalea; 
the time when we feel most the exhilaration of a tonic atmosphere, and youth 
comes again to age. And then follows May. Beautiful ! beautiful ! glorious 
May ! Who can describe an East Tennessee May in any other way than by 
exclamations? Mayflowers! No indeed. We squander those in March. We 
hurry past our roses of the commoner sorts in April, and come into realization of 
the complete bliss of living in the real native land of the continual blossoming 
rose, in the early days of May, when the black boys peddle young mocking- 
birds through the streets, and the luscious red strawberries come, so sweet, so 



AND Lookout Mountain. 17 

plenty and so "welcome. And then comes June. Young summer, older than 
May, wiser, larger, fuller, and bringing the first harvests of ripened grain; 
holding in its provident lap the most liberal bestowals of the Almighty in re- 
wards for the labors of man, with a great bonus of earth's spontaneous fruits. 
Aud there are no hot days yet. oSTo sweltering nights. 

"Can a better summer resort be pictured? If consumptives want altitude 
and mild climate together, and upon that all authorities agree, it is to be found 
here. These mountains are so common to us, who use them for daily, weekly 
and monthly convenience in the summer days, a sleeping place away from the 
dust and mosquitoes, as well as cooler home quarters, that we have no just 
appreciation of them. But the mountains of East Tennessee are destined to 
occupy a high place in the public estimation, in future, as a living place for 
invalids." 

Another physician, who also came here from the ^STorth, has this to say of our 
surrounding mountains : 

''During the last six years I have spent the summers on Walden's Ridge. I 
speak of what I have seen with my own eyes, and know to be true, that if tuber- 
cles are not already formed on the lungs, and continue fully developed within 
the body of the lungs, a residence of a year, yea, even sometimes a few months^ 
will dispel all fears of a consumptive death from the mind of the unfortunate. 
I know that I have seen them carried up the ridge apparently in the last stages 
of phthisic, coughing incessantly, and yet they lived for months, slowly improv- 
ing every day, until, thinking they were nearly well, they left the mountain, 
went back to the i^orthern clime, and in a few weeks the inevitable occurred. 
I have visited nearly every house on Walden's Ridge, every cabin and hut, and 
I have rarely seen a native with any lung trouble whatever. 

"I could almost say the same of Sand Mountain, Lookout Mountain and 
divers other places, did time permit. 

"We, fortunately, are living in a clime midway between the icy regions of 
the N'orth and the hot, sultry air of the South— a spot where it is not too warm 
for comfort, not too cold to even bundle up on the coldest of days ; certainly the 
most healthy, the most pleasant clime known to me on earth. Adopting Chat- 
tanooga as my home in 1865, I say it, without fear of contradiction, that we 
have the most healthy climate, the most prosperous city, the most pleasant and 
hospitable people that the sun shines on. May the balance of my life be spent 
among them, for verily my lines have been cast in pleasant places." 

It may be of interest to those who determine the balminess of a city by the 
general direction of the winds to say that the prevailing direction of wind at 
Chattanooga is southwest, at St. Louis south, at Cincinnati southeast, at Toledo 
southwest, at Albany south, at Washington west, at Omaha south, and Pitts- 
burg northwest. 

EDUCATIONAL FACILITIES. 

The Public School System of Chattanooga is an admirable one, patterned 
after the best models, and conducted in the most practical, satisfactory manner. 
There is a Board of Education, sixteen members, and a Superintendent, sixty- 
2 



18 Historical Guide to Chattanooga 

four teachers, five Primary Schools, four Grammar Schools, and two High 
Schools. These are conducted in six large, convenient, well heated and venti- 
lated, and thoroughly drained buildings. 

There are four grades in the Primary Schools, four grades in the Grammar 
Schools, and three classes, junior, middle and senior, in the High Schools. 

Location of School Buildings. 

Chattanooga High School, corner of Gillespie and Early streets. 

Howard High School, Gilmer street. 

First District, corner McCallie avenue and Douglas street. 

Second District, corner of Gillespie and Early streets. 

Third District, William street. 

Gilmer Street School, Gilmer street. 

Montgomery Avenue School, Montgomery avenue. 

There are a number of private schools, which are made necessary by the 
views of their patrons. These schools are reported to be conducted to the 
entire satisfaction of those patrons. 

Notre Dame de Loudres Academy. 

This School, under control of the Catholic Church, is conducted by the 
Dominican Sisters. The building is large, conveniently arranged for its pur- 
poses, and there are praises only for the charming, uniformed women who con- 
duct it. It is a parochial school, as well as a young ladies' seminary, and the 
building stands on the Catholic Church square. 

TV"e hazard nothing in affirming that the educational facilities of Chattanooga 
(see "Chattanooga University," page 29) are all that can be desired, and. this 
opinion is continually being confirmed by families removing to this city to secure 
the thorough education of their childreii. 

Not only are the Public School buildings for the separate education of whites 
and blacks ample and commodious, they are handsome from an architectural 
standpoint, and healthful. The colored people are as amply provided for as are 
the whites. Their teachers are of their own race, without exception. 

THE CHUECHES. 

Chattanoogans, with pardonable pride, point out to visitors their handsome 
church edifices. The Methodist Episcopal Church, corner of McCallie and 
Georgia avenues, is of blue limestone, and surmounted by a lofty spire. Its 
windows attract special attention. Near by, on Gilmer street, the Methodist 
Episcopal Church, South, is of brick, its tall, graceful spire visible from all 
points in the valley. On the same street, and near to Georgia avenue, is the 
immense Catholic Church building, flanked by the home of the Dominican 
Sisters, who teach in the large school building close by, and by the pastor's 
house, on Georgia avenue. The First Baptist Church has a massive building, on 
Georgia avenue, built of pink sandstone, with drab facings, the windows of 



AND Lookout Mountain. 19 

which are wonderfully beautiful ; and on the same avenue, corner of Sev- 
enth, is the brick structure of the First Presbyterian Church. Close by, on 
Walnut street, is the tasty, modestly trimmed Church of the Christians; and on 
Oak street you see the delicate spire of the Cumberland Presbyterian Church. 

On the West side of Market, corner of Eighth and Chestnut, is the present 
edifice of tlie Second Presbyterian Church. This church is preparing to build a 
handsome house of worship. 

On the corner of Pine and Seventh is the immense pile known as St. Paul's 
Protestant Episcopal Church. The Rectory and Parochial School are included 
in this pile. 

The colored people have erected two handsome church buildings — one by the 
Baptists, on Gilmer, the other by the Methodists, on corner of Lookout and 
Fifth streets.^ 

The Jewish Synagogue is on Walnut street, and is soon to be remodeled and 
beautified. 

These are the main edifices, but there are quite a number of less expensive 
buildings in difi"erent parts of the city and in the suburbs. The Unitarians 
worship in the Hall of the Chamber of Commerce, but announce their intention 
of erecting a house of worship next year. 



THE EAILEOADS. 

Not only has Chattanooga a great waterway for the movement of raw mate- 
rial that does not demand rapid transportation, but it is the terminus of eight 
trunk railways, that are not only well equipped, but are provided with ampler 
terminal facilities. 

The Western & Atlantic was the first railway to enter the valley ; it wa? 
built by the State of Georgia. In the early days of its business, cotton bales 
were wont to be piled the entire length of Mulberry (now Broad) street, from 
the river to the railway's freight shed, at Ninth street, awaiting transportation. 
Then the locomotives and freight cars were but toys in comparison to those of 
the present day, and complaints of shippers were loud and fierce. The city gave 
this road a right of way down Mulberry to the river, and that right was not 
surrendered until 1872. Mulberry street was widened from 60 to 126 feet for the 
uses of the railroad, and its name was changed to Railroad avenue. This will 
yet be the main thoroughfare. 

The Nashville & Chattanooga road came next after the Western & Atlantic, 
a,nd gave access to the rich granaries of Middle Tennessee, and also provided a 
continuous rail from the future capital of Georgia to the capital of Tennessee. 
This stimulated the building of the Louisville <fc Nashville. 

The East Tennessee did not at first extend the main line any further than 
Cleveland, and built a branch to Dalton, Ga., to make connection with the 
Western & Atlantic, and supply the South with the surplus of cereals and meat 
found in East Tennessee. Several years after the opening to Dalton the mam 
iine was built into Chattanooga, piercing Missionary Ridge with a tunnel instead 



20 Historical Guide to Chattanooga 

of going around its northern extremity, as the Western & Atlantic had done. 
This road has since built a line from Chattanooga to Atlanta and Macon, con- 
necting -with its road to Brunswick, on the lower Atlantic. 

The "Wills Yalley Railroad, which was surveyed to Meridian, Miss., in 1847, 
was running to Trenton, Ga., when the war began. After the war it was com- 
pleted to Meridian and called the Alabama & Chattanooga. Subsequently it 
was bought by the present owners and the name changed to Alabama Great 
Southern. 

The Memphis & Charleston, whose rails end at Stephenson, Ala., and whose 
connections with the East Tennessee system at Chattanooga are made over the 
rails of the N'ashville <fe Chattanooga, was the great East & TVest line when 
the war began. Its name implies a through rail connection of the Father of 
Waters with the broad Atlantic, through Chattanooga, Atlanta, Augusta and 
Charleston. 

The city of Cincinnati, in full appreciation of its southern trade, built the 
great Cincinnati Southern through the mountains of Tennessee, boring thirteen 
tunnels through its ridges, at an expense of over twenty millions of dollars. 
The owners of the Alabama Great Southern are the lessees of this highway. 
This an d the Louisville & Nashville are competitors for the freights that pass to 
and through Chattanooga. 

The Chattanooga, Rome & Columbus is a new line, opening up a country of 
great importance to Chattanooga. It passes the battle-field of Chickamauga^ and 
crosses close to Crawfish Spring, over the river that flows out of that spring. 

The Union (or Belt) Railway surrounds the city, and sends out branches to 
the various suburbs. It has created and maintained those suburbs by low rates 
and quick service, both of passengers and freights. 

Several railroads are projected — one to Augusta, Ga,, another to connect with 
the Xorth Carolina system via Murphy, and a local road to the summit of "Wal- 
den's Ridge, and Signal Point; the latter the rival of the Point of Lookout. It 
is also believed that the Memphis & Charleston will extend its rails into Chatta- 
nooga through South Pittsburg and Sequachee Valley, crossing the Tennessee 
at Chattanooga. When this is done, and the bridge is completed over the river, 
'' Hill City" will become the most populous of the suburbs. 

The railroads have made Chattanooga. The chronic war that always exists 
between railways and cities has not escaped Chattanooga for all that. Hence, 
the citizens are looking for the completion of the Muscle Shoals Canal with more 
than ordinary anxiety. They expect to use the river as a liquid club with which 
to frighten the railways into lower and more equitable rates of freight. But, 
club or no club, the railroads will remain the great arteries through which will 
come and go the life blood of Chattanooga. 

The roads to the summit of Lookout were completed in 1887 and in 1889, and 
are described in the Excursions. They have done much for the comfort of our 
citizens by furnishing rapid transit during the warm months of summer. They 
have also added to the importance of the mountain by making its airy summit 
easy of access to excursionists and pleasure seekers. 

The Electric Railway makes Missionary Ridge even more easy of access than 



AND Lookout Mountain. 21 

Lookout, and has added greatly to the comforts of the large population now 
liviug on that beautiful and historic hill-top. 

J^ext in importance to the railroads is the great river, whose passage to the 
Mississippi has been interrupted by the Muscle Shoals. These obstructions and 
the necessity of removing them are not by any means new discoveries. More 
than fifty years ago the whole question was discussed by the ablest statesmen 
and engineers in the country, and it is probable that the pernicious doctrine 
which prevailed at that time, that the General Government ought not to engage 
in internal improvements, had a great deal to do with the smallness of the 
results. 

A few facts will illustrate the importance of this waterway to Chattanooga : 

The Tennessee is open all winter, at the very time when the oS'orthern water 
routes are frozen up and the railroads are putting on the highest rates. For this 
reason boats from the Ohio Kiver which are obliged to lay up for the winter, and 
are so much in danger of ice gorges that Congress has been considering the pro- 
priety of expending a large sum to build harbors of refuge for them, could 
afibrd to come down here during the winter and work for the lowest rates that 
would pay running expenses. 

The Chattanooga coal and iron fields are 450 miles nearer the mouth of the 
Ohio River than is the city of Pittsburg, which amounts to saying that we have 
that distance the start of Pittsburg in reaching any point on the Mississippi, or 
its western tributaries. Chattanooga has about the same advantage, so far as 
dit^tance is concerned, that she would have if Pittsburg were located above 
Bristol, Tenn,, and had to run its freights down the river. 

The assurance is given at this writing that before Christmas of 1889 steam- 
boats will be passing freely through the Muscle Shoals Canal, and Chattanooga 
will have uninterrupted water transportation connection with the world. 



Historical Guide to Chattanooga 



A TOUR OF THE CITY. 



Let us now conduct the visitor on a short tour of the city, and we will begin 
at the Union Passenger Depot, if he is willing to our guidance. 

We drive down Market street, along the fine asphalt pavement, until wo 
reach Fourth street, where stands the principal historical house of the city, the 
three- story, plain brick building on the southwest corner. It is now the city 
building, and is flanked by the city jail on the west. It is battered, bolted, and 
somewhat unshapely, for it was the first brick house erected in the city. It was 
built in 1840 of the bricks burned with the wood that was cleared off what are 
now Market and Broad streets, and the owners, Messrs. Whiteside, "Williams & 
Bridgeman, were pronounced the most venturesome of men. 

Drive over to Broad, along Fourth, and then up Broad to Seventh. Go west 
until you reach the large ecclesiastical pile known as the Protestant Episcopal 
Church. Take a peep at its unique interior, and then ascend to the summit of 
Cameron Hill by the road on the eastern brow. "While you ascend, the prospect 
widens and brightens until the valley of Chattanooga, with its prosperous city, 
its bright painted suburbs, its forest of brick and iron smoke stacks, its great 
throbbing, rumbling factories, its iron highways, its historic mountain walls, its 
vineyards and orchards and majestic river lies beyond and behind you; a beauti- 
ful panorama, full of color, life and promise for the future. 

The carriage will halt at the base of the now broken flag-staff, that was set 
up there in 1881, when the stars and stripes were run up to its lofty summit by a 
member of the Society of the Army of the Cumberland and a member of the 
specially-organized-for-the-occasion society of ex-Confederates. And when the 
grand old ensign flashed in the sun of that September day the cannons planted 
on demolished Fort "Wood poured forth a salute that was echoed by the shouts of 
the thousands that swarmed upon Cameron Hill and upon the streets of the city 
below. 

Descending from your carriage, you alight where stood a battery when Gen. 
Mitchell indulged the diversion one Sunday morning of shelling the city while 
the people were at prayer, "Where you see the fine brick "Central Block," corner 
of Market and Seventh streets, there stood the Presbyterian Church, which was 
struck by one of those shells, and dismissed the congregation without a bene- 
diction. 

Begin your examination of the panorama at the base of Mount Lookout, just 
where the "Point" stands out so clear-cut against the southwestern sky. The 
foliage of the Moccasin conceals the river as it sweeps around the base of the 
great ob.'^truction to flow northward again toward the open gateway, which is 
seen beyond the heart-shaped island directly west. Kaccoon Mountain, 1,000 
feet above the gently flowing water, forms the western wall of the valley, and & 



AND Lookout Mountain. 



23 



pillar of the gateway to this valley of imperishable memories. It is only a few 
hundred yards across the ''ankle " to where the tide is parted by an island just 
as it enters the mountain gorge, hurries on to the Father of Waters, and thence 
to the gulf. 

Walden's Ridge, with its level plateau and precipitous bluffs, is dotted with 
summer houses. Between the river, above which you stand, and the base of 
this ridge, you can discover a well wooded stretch of land, on whose billowy 
bosom numerous white cottages nestle in the ample shade. A church steeple 
assures you of the permanancy of this suburb, now known as ''Hill City," and 
the superb bridge, soon to be thrown over the river, will make it a favorite 
among the suburban claimants. 

Below you see saw mills and planing mills and the rails of the Union Rail- 
way. On the rounded, detached terrace, on the eastern side of your point of 
observation, are the reservoirs of the water- works, now abandoned for the works 
described elsewhere. 

Looking due east, and near to the river, you will discover the Confederate 
monument in the densely shaded "old cemetery"; also the stacks of the water- 
works and of Citico Blast Furnace. Turning a little to the right the floating en- 
sign of the Union locates the beautifully kept enclosure of the i^ational Ceme- 
tery. Beyond these is Missionary Ridge, and dotting the valley from Boyce to 
East Lake are the suburbs, better seen from the summit of Lookout. 








24 Historical Guide to Chattanooga 

Toil now see within the corporate limits the University and the ppires of the 
two Methodist and the two Presbyterian churches, and also the towers of the 
Baptist and of the immense Catholic Church. The court-house, handsomely de- 
signed and honestly erected, stands in the open green beside the wooden Baptist 
church. 

Having feasted your eyes on this attractive landscape, resume your carriage 
aud begin the descent by the old roadway on the western side. The rocky 
'•point" of Lookout is projected into the air, and to it you see the smoke and 
steam of factories ascending like incense — an offering of gratitude to that vigi- 
lant sentinel whose eyes never close in neglectful slumber. 

Your carriage enters the western road at the spot where stood the catafalque, 
and where the Society of the Army of the Cumberland and the Society of ex- 
Confederates held memorial services on September 22, 1881, for the President of 
the United States, James A. Garfield, whose remains were then lying in state at 
the nation's capital. Surely that spot was made sacred by those tearful services. 

We are unable to paint the scenes of that memorable day on Cameron Hill. 
On the extreme summit, which you have ju;^t left, and on the brow overlooking 
the Tennessee, had been reared the flag-staff, now gone to decay ; and a garrison 
flag, heavily draped, lay with its halyards at the base of the pole. An immense 
multitude, representing every race and color that has sought an asylum in our 
great country, stood anmnd, leaving only a small open space for the ceremonies. 
Along the slope, down to the canopied stand on which the orations were to be pro- 
nounced, stood the wailing thousands. The sun poured down its fierce meridian 
rays, unobscured by a single cloud, but there was not a murmur. Southward 
arose grand old Lookout, like a sentinel above the Moccasin Bend, and guarding 
the approach to the sacred spot where slept the brave men who made the distant 
fields of Missionary Ridge and Chickamauga immortal. Up from the city came 
the long procession of ex-Federal and ex-Confederate soldiers, their banners 
draped and drooping, and their bands playing solemn music. There was naught 
of gaud or display ; it was a long funeral cortege, a tribute of love to him whose 
ashes lay in state at the capitol of the republic. 

The canopied stand, heavily draped, had a large portrait of the martyred 
President suspended in the center. In front of the rostrum was an inclosure, in 
the center of which was a beautiful catafalque covered with white cloth and 
decorated with the choicest of cut-flower emblems, vines and evergreens. On 
the summit of that flowery pyramid an immense urn was surmounted by a floral 
cross and crown. This was the work of the ladies of Chattanooga, a committee 
t)f whom sat at its base during the ceremonies. 

Soon the procession reached the hill-top and the base of the flag-stafi". The 
marshals of bath armies approached the staff and saluted. The two chiefs 
grasped the halyards, the baud rent the air with the " Star Spangled Banner," the 
artillery at Fort Wood fired a salve of thirty-eight guns. Up went the old flag, 
the halyards moving under the hands of an ex-Federal and an ex-Confederate, 
and as the breeze caught up the graceful folds of that most beautiful of ensigns, 
the war-worn veterans went wild with delight. Cheer after cheer rent the air 
Then the band played "Dixie," and the enthusiasm arose almost to madness. 



AND Lookout Mountain. 25 

Men who once were enemies threw their hats into the air and rushed into each 
other's arms, and on the summit of Cameron Hill, in full view of Lookout, Mis- 
sion Kidge and Chickamauga, and of the National and Confederate Cemeteries, 
the American Union was irrevocably restored beyond the disintegrating power 
of demagogue or madman. 

Presently the thrilling notes of the band changed to a dirge. The flag slowly 
descended to half mast, hats were removed and a hush pervaded the multitude 
that a moment before was wild with excitement. Every eye was moist with 
tears of sympathy for the sweet, good woman who then sat by the bier of him 
the nation delighted to honor. 

The procession returned to the rostrum, which was already packed with dis- 
tinguished ex-Confederate and Federal oflBcers. The space around the inclosure 
containing the catafalque was so densely packed that several fainted. When 
the procession occupied the space allowed them, there was not a green spot op 
€ameron Hill visible to the tallest man who stood upon the raised platform ; if 
was covered with a mass of human beings, densely packed, and awaiting with 
Abated breath the utterings of the Confederate welcome. 

Following the addresses, made by S. A. Key for the Confederates and by J. 
"W. Keifer for the Society of the Army of the Cumberland, came the requiem 
services, led by Eev. J. W. Bachman, D. D., an ex-Confederate colonel. The 
music, the prayer, the Scriptures, the addresses, the sorrowing Templars and 
weeping women, were all in unison — a tribute of love to the martyred, and an 
•expression of affection and sympathy for the bereaved widow and fatherless 
children. At its conclusion, the people silently descended the hill, and those 
who stood near the catafalque begged fca: the flowers and vines to carry home as 
«acred memorials of the tender occasion. 

As you continue the descent, you see on the narrow strip of laud between 
mount and river the planing mill of Hughes & Co., the electric light plant, the 
buildings of the Roane Iron Company's steel mill, and the plant of Montague 
.& Co., where are made fire-bricks and vitrified sewer pipes in very large 
quantities. 

Instruct your hackman to drive out Magazine street to Terrace, where you 
will find several of the handsomest residences of the city. The circuit of the 
Terrace is made around the elegant residence of Capt H. S. Chamberlain, and a 
good view is obtained of the Tannery plant of Fayerweather & Ladew, in the 
-centre of which is securely sandwiched the lofty stack, cupola and outlying 
buildings of the Chattanooga Iron Company's blast furnace. 

Admission to this Tannery, one of the largest in the world, is obtained at the 
office, and you are conducted over acres of concealed vats, in which lie thousands 
upon thousands of hides ; on by the currying department, where scores of sable 
artists, with huge knives, raise a scent that excells attar of roses; through 
miles of leather, bark, leeches and drying-houses. You will see thousands of 
gallons of bark coffee, heaps of white hair suitable for the making of camel's 
hair shawls, thousands of cords of oak bark awaiting the embraces of the huge 
coffee mills; enormous sheds full of belt leather, and then the clever acting 
machinery that has made dismantled sad irons no longer a necessity to the 



26 Historical Guide to Chattanooga 

shoemaker; the oiling and drying apparatus, and finally the loading of the com- 
pleted stock for shipment to the hydraulic presses of New York. The " sight" 
repays a journey from New England. 

If time permits, visit the Blast Furnace, examine its mighty blowers, its huge 
cupola, its seventy times heated " stoves." its batteries of boilers, its storing 
sheds for ore, coke and limestone. But most interesting is the making of a cast, 
when the molten iron rushes down a narrow channel, and is adroitly turned into 
the "sows," which feed the pigs on both sides* until thirty tons of the metal 
lies steaming in its beds of sand. And when the iron has all run out, the pyro- 
technics that follow exceed anything possible to less ambitious appliances. It 
lb believed by some that the attendants on such performances should hold a 
lively appreciation of the startling possibilities of a life of depravity. 

Now take your carriage and drive out Montgomery avenue, noting the hand- 
some public school building recently erected for colored children. You whirl 
over the smooth macadamized road until jou reach the great stone gateway of the 



r r^^- rid^i,^ 







NATIONAL CEMETERY. 

As you approach the sacred enclosure the magnificent gateway looms up 
before you. It is built of Alabama limestone, with an archway 37 feet in height, 
in which swings a heavy iron gate. This gateway cost $17,000 by special con- 
tract. While you halt, as the gate turns on its hinges to allow you ingress, you 
will read the following inscription on the entablature: 

National Military Cemetery. 
Chattanooga, A. D., 1863. 



AND Lookout Mountain. 27 

Passing under the lofty arch, you again halt upon the beautiful white gravel, 
and, turning around, read on the inside entablature this inscription: 

Here Rest in Peace 12,956 Citizens, 

Who Died for Their Country 

In the Years 1861 to 1865. 

You now drive slowly arouncf the graveled walk, beside the dense and close- 
clipped osage hedge, which nearly conceals the well-coped wall that entirely 
surrounds the inclosure. The cemetery is circular, nearly one mile in circum- 
ference, and contains 75^ acres. It was purchased at a cost of $15,000. In the 
centre rises a knoll fully 100 feet above the aveuue on which you drive, and the 
grounds slope down to this exterior avenue in the most beautiful and undulating 
manner. It is well covered with blue-grass, which the diligent superintendent 
keeps closely shaven. On these verdant slopes are nineteen special interment 
sections, each marked by a small grauite obelisk, and lettered A to S; and these 
are surrounded by the small white marble head and foot-stones. These sections 
are of different forms, in the arrangement of the graves, some forming triangles, 
others oblongs, others squares, others parallelograms, and others circles, while 
secti(m E forms a shield. 

Starting from the gateway and turning to your right, you will reach Section 
S., where are the private monuments of Major T. J. Carlile, Capt. B. S. Xicklin 
and wife, Capt. W. H. McDevitt, Capt. G. A. M. Estes and Dr. R. if. Barr. 

Just above this is Section H., where, in a semi- circle, lie the ashes of the 
seven men who were hung for the capture of the passenger locomotive ''Gen- 
eral," at Big Shanty, on the Western & Atlantic Railroad, in 1862. You can 
leave your carriage and go on foot over the green sward to this section, and 
there you will find names on the headstones thus : Samuel Slovins, S. Robert- 
son, G. D. Wilson, Marion Ross, W. Campbell, P. G. Shadrach, John Scott — all 
of Ohio. 

On the 6th day of March, 1889, the Legislature of Ohio appropriated $5,000 
for the erection of a monument to the memory of these brave men. We are 
told they were a picked company from a large number, each man being pecu- 
liarly fitted for certain railway work. One or more had been locomotive 
engineers, others were firemen, telegraphers, and each man knew just what duty 
he would be assigned to. The capture of the engine and the race from Big 
Shanty to the point near this city where they abandoned the engine and took to 
the woods and were captured and hung is well known history. They took their 
lives in their hands and they lost them. 

The leader of this party, J. J. Andrews, was interred in this section on Sun- 
day, October 16, 1887, with appropriate ceremonies. The writer of these lines 
was one of the military witnesses of the death of Andrews, and he hereby bears 
testimony that he died as does a fearless man. 

You will continue (on foot) while your carriage drives around to meet you 
before the Superintendent's Lodge, till you reach the summit of the knoll. On 
this summit is the flag-staff, on which floats the Ensign of the Union, and the 



28 Historical Guide to Chattanooga 

great brick rostrum of 40 x 20 feet area, 5 feet high, with handsome** cut-stone 
coping and an interior carpet of velvety grass. An open roof of purloins and 
joists is supported by 12 square pillars, and these are covered with the ivy, 
woodbine and climbing vines so plentifully planted around the base. 

Surrounding this rostrum is a close -shaven lawn, dotted with trees and 
shrubs, on which stand on end four immense cannons. One of these has the 
regulation shield, in bronze, on which is engraved, in raised letters: 

United States 

National Military Cemetery, 

Chattanooga. 

Established. - 1863. 

The cemetery was established under an order of G-eneral Thomas, issued 

December 25, 1863. 

The records in the Superintendent's office give the following details : 
First interment, February 18, 1863. 

Officers 204 

White soldiers, known 6 804 

White soldiers, unknown 4,943—11,747 

Colored soldiers, known 885 

Colored soldiers, unknown 20 — 905 

Civilians 154 



Total interments to May 15, 1889 13,010 

The only large monument in the cemetery is the one erected to the Dead of 
the 4th Army Corps, and is a handsome marble obelisk, rising from a plinth 
properly inscribed on all sides. There are several private monumeut-s. One in 
Section C to Lieut. -Col. J. B, Taft, of New York, and one in Section F to Dr. 
A. L. Cox, of the 20th Corps. In Section E is one to Maj. S. F. McKeehan, of 
Indiana, and one to Lieut. Adam Lowry, of Pennsylvania. In Section A is a 
monument to Capt. J. H. Lereve, of Indiana; one to Col. G. de Mihalotzy, of 
Illinois, and one to Capt. W. C. Russell, A. A. Gr. In Section D is a monument 
to Capt. J. Gunsenhouser, of Indiana. 
The following is a 

Recapitulation 
By States of the interments : 

Missouri 168 — 

Alabama 38U» New Jersey 32—' 

Connecticut 204 New York 34(K. 

Ohio 1,823-- 

Illiuois 1.103_J Pennsylvania 198 — 

Indiana 1338^, Rhode Inland 2 

Iowa 187- - Tennessee 133 — , 

Kansas 58-- Wisconsin 238—^ 

Kentucky 360-4- West Yirgiuia 3 

Pioneers 5 

Signal Corps 3 



Minnesota 107'* 



Maryland 2 

Maine 1 

Massachusetts 73-|' Employes 14 

Michigan 4Sa^^ Miscellaneous 5.018 



Colored 885 



AND Lookout Mountain. 29 

The Government built the macadamized road from Montgomery avenne to the 
Cemetery gate. This is thirty feet wide. The right of way is 80 feet wide, and 
shade trees will be planted on both sides the entire distance. It is a pity that 
this drive is somewhat neglected. 

The total expense of the Cemetery up to January 1, 1889, was $215,000 in 
round numbers. It is now the second N'ational Cemetery in point of beauty, and 
if improvements continue it will soon be second to none. 

No visitor to Chattanooga should fail to include this lovely City of the Dead 
in excursions. Its beautiful lawn, sbade trees and flowering shrubs, its roses 
and trailing vines, make it all that affection and patriotism could desire. It is 
sad to remember that thirteen thousand brave men sleep beneath this emerald 
carpet, but the patriot finds consolation in the memory that they died for their 
country. 

After registering at the Superintendent's lodge, you will resume your carriage. 
Passing under the archway again you are driven to the elevated site known as 
Fort A\^ood, near which stand the huge filters of the water- works. There, amid 
piles of material for the building of the residences going up all around, you 
have a very effective view of the valley of Chattanooga. 

From Fort Wood you drive to the 



W^. 3 



fe^ 



Chattanooga University, 
an imposing stucture, which is easily discovered from the cars of each of the 
railways that enter the city. It is the educational building erected by the 



80 



Historical Guide to Chattanooga 



Methodist Episcopal Churchy whose beautiful house of worship is at the western 
termiuus of McCallie avenue. This institution was chartered July 9, 1886, and 
the main building was completed September 16, 1886. The first term began on 
September 15th. It has a full corps of teachers, and four schools are organized: 
Academic, Collegiate and Art. There is a good library and good apparatus. 
This school was consolidated with the one at Athens in 1889, and is now known 
as the "Grant Memorial University." The real estate and endowments of these 
consolidated schools are put down at $500,000. "The University is not operated 
for financial profit, and uses its large revenues in reducing the cost of an educa- 
tion to students." 

The two-story brick building west of the campus is the "Central High 
School" of the city system of public schools. It is more commodious than 
beautiful. 

You can now drive down the northern slope of the college eminence and visit 
the 




Confederate Cemetery. 



AND Lookout Mountain. 31 

There lie thousands of those who wore the gray, beneath the shade of weep- 
ing willows, with graves uumarked, while a monument, with a shaft thirty feet 
in height, stands on the highest spot in the enclosure, bearing the simple in- 
scription, ''Our Confederate Dead." Mrs. G. C. Connor was president of the 
association of ladies who built it, and Mr. W. D. Van Dyke was their treasurer. 
Maj. Gr. C. Connor was the designer of the monument. United States troops, 
with Capt. Cochran at their head, entered this cemetery with reversed arms, the 
band of his regiment (Col. Wheaton's) preceding them, and participated in the 
laying of the corner-stone, which was laid by Hon. Jas. D. Richardson, then 
Grand Master of Freemasons, and now member of Congress. The larger portion 
of the fund that reared this monument was contributed by Northern-born resi- 
dents of Chattanooga. Such is the spirit that has animated our people since 
1870. Such is the spirit that animates the entire South to-day. 

Blot out the lines that woiild divide 

And desecrate our sod ; 
Bind close our States, give us one law, 

One Union and one God. 

And may we not hope that that spirit will spread until it animates the entire 
nation, and its government shall recognize in these brave defenders of their prin- 
ciples gallant citizens of the United States. The grassy, shaded necropolis is 
indeed a sacred memory of American valor. 

From the Confederate Cemetery you drive to your hotel along Yine street, 
passing the Orphans' Home, the brilliant edifice of the First Baptist Church and 
the court-house. "When driving down Seventh you will turn into Market street. 
You soon reach the 

Union Passenger Depot. 

All travelers admire this handsome depot, into which most of the railways 
mn their trains. It contains two waiting-rooms and a ladies' parlor, baggage- 
room, telegraph office, ticket office, dining-room, lunch- stand, kitchen, and 
seven handsome offices up stairs. The seatings are solid walnut, elegantly 
finished. The mantels are slate and marble, and the chandeliers of modem de- 
signs. Electric lamps, in addition to the gas, illuminate the building. The main 
corridor is paved with Georgia marble. The front is of Zanesville pressed brick, 
with black cut joints, and a fine clock decorates the cupola. Two grass plats, 
surrounded by a massive curbing and pavement, lie between its front and the 
street. All the conveniences are well up to the demands of the times, and the 
city, as well as the railways, are justly proud of it. 

Should you stop at the Stanton, you will go up Mnth street from the Union 
Depot and pass the place where the Government is erecting the Custom-house 
on ''Stone Fort," a lofty site, with solid rock foundation. You will reach en 
route the 

Central Railway Station. 

This spacious depot was erected by the Cincinnati, New Orleans & Texas Pa- 
cific Railway Company. In addition to the amval and departure of their own 



32 



fliSTOEicAL Guide to Chattanooga 



wayinand^utof thecity Tei enfrn^he/^^^ ''"' ''"'"' "'''"-■ 

waUi„,.roo»., ,u„ch.s,a,fd a„d IirLV'nlttr"'''''""'^' "^ ''^"''^'"'>'' 

-u. Of t.e industries^ .e ^d^a^ ".^retr" ^^"^ """'" "^ ^ 




AND Lookout Mountain. 33 

EXCURSIONS TO LOOKOUT MOUNTAIN. 



There are three routes to the Summit of historic Lookout— one, the oldest, by 
carriage up the well-kept St. Elmo Turnpike, another up the standard gauge 
''Lookout Mountain Kailroad," and the other up the ''Incline''— and along the 
K^arrow Gauge to Sunset Rock. 

1. BY CARRIAGE UP ST. ELMO TURNPIKE. 

Taking your carriage early in the morning, you will drive out TThiteside 
street, by the murky stacks of Lookout Rolling Mill, the Stove and the Pipe 
Works, and in full view of the busy valley and its hundred factories^ crossing on 
the tall iron bridge over Chattanooga Creek, while you gaze at the projecting 
mass called the "Point," now cleariy defined against the western sky. 

Having reached the foot of the mountain, you begin the ascent of the St. 
Elmo road. You drive by easy grades to the bluflF overiookiug Cascade Glen; 
then you descend to the bridge that crosses the brook, dashing along its rocky 
precipitous bottom to the valley beyond. The ascent grows steeper over the 
remamder of the road, whDe passing in full view of the glen, every foot of 
which reveals new beauties and wonders. When you reach the summit you 
debouch on the regular mountain road. Then you look back into the glen, and 
gaze on its silvery brook, rushing over abrupt precipices, winding arouud im- 
mense bowlders, or singing along over its pebbly bottom till it is lost in the 
dense foliage beyond the bridge. On either side the precipitous mountains close 
m the view, and on a spur which projects into the glen, on the south side you 
catch a glimpse of the old United States Hospital, on its lofty perch, and "ex- 
claim, as thousands have done before, " What a lovely spot for a hotel." 

Having reached the summit, you instruct the driver to turn his horses toward 
Rock City. The drive is not as smooth as a boulevard, but its very ruggedness 
adds to your enjoyment of the scenery. You dash along between the trees, 
when suddenly you are in fi>ll view of the ruins of the immense wooden build- 
ings erected for a hospital by General Thomas, in 1S64-5, at a cost of $285,000, 
when General King was encamped with the 15th, 16th, 18th and 19th regulars on 
the camp ground west of Rock City, and through the ruined chimneys of which 
you will pass en route to Lulu Lake. At the close of the war these buildings 
were purchased by the philanthropist, Mr. Robert, and used as a school for boys 
and girls. The venture proved a failure, and the school was closed. Then the 
buildings were removed, little by little, until scarcely any remain. 

Having passed over the branch of Cascade Glen, and ascended to the ridge on 
which stood this big building, you turn to the left into an almost abandoned 
road that leads you to the northern entrance of 

Rock Village. 
You descend from your carriage and walk through a stone gateway that is 
formed by two rocks sixty feet high and fifty feet apart, each surmounted by a 



34 Historical Guide to Chattanooga 

cone resembling a sentinel. Stopping a moment at the round-table, you pass 
under the broken arch, leaving the "Witches Grotto," on your left, and pres- 
ently you are in the ''Coliseum," its massive ruins lying about in endless con- 
fusion. Tour carriage has gone around by the highlands, and awaits you in the 
" suburbs." 

Yo\i now stroll down the graveted walk and halt at Payne's Spring, gushing 
from a square opening in the rock, and taste its cool, freestone water. Then 
you walk around some more "ruins," and turn to the *' Point,"' from which you 
can look up Payne's Ravine, on the left, its rocky walls pierced by numerous 
caves. On your right, the beautiful valley, hundreds of feet below, tempts you 
to descend to its green shadiness. Returning, you pass between the " Sisters" 
and the immense conglomerate, perched on one leg, called the "Pedestal.' 
Here you see the " Ostrich Egg," which some fool soldiers overturned during the 
war, and just beyond is the immense mass called "Elephant Rock," 

Avoiding the prickly cactus, which pierce your gloves and hands if you touch 
them, and feasting your eyes on the exquisite mosses, ferns and lichens, you bid 
adieu to the suburbs of Rock Tillage, re-enter your carriage, and drive over to 

Rock City. 

A short walk between the trees brings you to the " Grand Corridor," the walls 
of which exclude the rays of the sun. Tou enter the narrow streets, whose 
mighty walls are conglomerate, and which are washed entirely smooth, rising 
sixty feet in height, and in many cases closing to less than a foot's distance 
apart. 

One street leads up to the "Fat Man's Misery," a narrow and precipitous 
pass to the summit of the rocky battlements. If unable to ascend this pass, you 
can return and go around by the path you entered; but if you are small and spry 
enough to ascend there, you can walk along the battlements, jumping over the 
deep crevices between there and "Rock City Bluff." This is the wildest view 
on the mountain, overlooking the valley of Chattanooga, hundreds of feet below. 
It gives you a glimpse of the battle-fields of Chickamauga and Missionary Ridge, 
and an excellent view of Chattanooga and of the Tennessee River. 

After testing the seats and niches of this bluff, you can visit the " Smoking 
Parlor," which is formed by an overhanging rock, with convenient seats scat- 
tered about. Tou next descend to "Rock City Avenue" through a narrow 
gateway, and find the street covered with loam, well shaded with elms and pop- 
lars, streams crossing it at various points, while narrow streets from other parts 
of the city come in through its tall conglomerate walls in a number of places. 
This is a favorite resort for picnic parties, being cool, well shaded, and supplied 
with delicious water. About one hundred yards from its southern entrance is 
the "Anvil Rock." 

Prom this southern entrance you can drive to Chickamauga Bluff (a mile 
away), over which pours a stream of crystal water one hundred and fifty feet 
perpendicular, and from which point you can see distant Eagle Cliff, and Lulu 
Palls, the latter gleaming in the sunlight like a ribbon of silver. 

You may now drive back by Rock City and out between the ruins of the 



AND Lookout Mountain. 



3d 



chimneys of the Camping Ground, and turn your horses toward Lulu Lake. 
Take the upper, or right-hand road, which is a very fair mountain highway. 
You pass the '^ Georgia Chalybeate Springs/' and soon after passing ''Two Mile 
Tree" you reach Jackson's Hill, where charming glimpses are obtained of the 
Chattanooga and Lookout valleys on either side, and the white walls of the 
buildings around ancient Summer Town. In front you behold lofty High Point 
and Eising Fawn Bluff, resembling a cross range of mountains. Over "rough 
and rugged ways " you continue until at last you reach 

LuLA Lake and Woodbine Falls. 

Quitting your carriage at the site of a once popular refreshment booth, you 
will descend to the rocky banks of Rock Creek, which pours down through lofty 
ledges, between mountains risirig up into the clouds, and halt at Woodbine 
Falls, a sloping ledge, about thirty feet high, down which the brook pours into 
the blue waters of the circular basin called Lulu Lake. In spring the woodbine 
and honeysuckle bloom here in great profusion. You walk carefully along the 
northern ledge until you reach a projecting cliff of the stone wall, that looks 
down upon the stream, three hundred feet below. Here you take a rocky seat 




Saddle Rock. 

and feast your eyes on the sublime scene. Just above is the little brook pouring 
down Woodbine Falls into a circular basin resembling an inverted washbowl, 
about two hundred feet in circumference, and over fifty feet deep. After caress- 
ing the crystal lakelet, this scurrying brook escapes fi'om the east side, rushes 



36 HiSTomcAL Guide to Chattanooga 

along a shelving channel and pours over a tall, curved precipice in silvery white- 
ness, forming the beautiful Lulu Falls, which you saw from Chickamauga Bluff. 
On the left are Chickamauga Bluff and Eagle Cliff, and the valley of Chicka- 
mauga is seen through the wildest of ravines, that begins at your feet. 

Many prefer to cross the brook above Woodbine Falls and follow the path- 
way around the lake and the point to the base of the falls. Such can enter be- 
neath the falls a capacious cavern, an exceedingly refreshing spot on a summer's 
day. 

After feasting your eyes on this wild, weird scene, you resume your carriage 
and turn homewards. Having reached the road that leads to the "IsTatural 
Bridge" you will drive there at once. 

The "Natural Bridge" property belongs to the Spiritualists, who have 
erected there an amphitheatre in which to hold their summer conventions. 
The "Bridge," the "Old Man of the Mountain" and the "Telephone Rock" are 
attractions and worthy of a visit. 

From the "Natural Bridge" you can walk over to the Broad Gauge Railroad 
and ride down to the park, or you can continue on with your carriage to the 
southern terminus of the l!^ arrow Gauge, just above Sunset Rock. 

2. BY THE STANDARD GAUGE RAILROAD. 

You will go to the Union depot and board a train of the Union, or Belt, 
Railroad early in the morning if you desire to make the entire tour of the moun- 
tain. It will be prudent, if you intend visiting the "city'' and the lake, to tele- 
phone from your hotel to have a carriage in waiting when your train arrives at 
the Lookout Mountain House on the summit. 

You will be comfortably conveyed through the valley, and by the pretty 
suburb, St. Elmo, and delivered at Mountain Junction in twenty minutes. 
There a climbing locomotive, equipped with all the appliances of strength and 
safety — things so necessary to mountain climbing— will seize hold of your coach 
and dash away with it up the bosom of the lofty hill at a speed of twenty miles 
an hour. The ascent is thrilling. First, a glimpse of St. Elmo, then a look of 
a few minutes' duration at that solemnly beautiful city of the dead, called For- 
est Hills; presently a vision of the valley, and of its suburbs leaning against 
Missionary Ridge, and then Chattanooga, reaching out to possess the land, which 
the broad, gently flowing river has limited only for a season. 

Up and up an6 up races the iron horse, until he dashes into the field of the 
"Battle Above the Clouds." There it shrieks a halt, and cutting loose hurries 
to the rear of your coach. Again it ascends, but in the opposite direction, and 
its speed is not slackened. The galleried "Point Hotel" hangs out threaten- 
ingly upon a terrace 200 feet above, and the sheer precipices frown their disap- 
probation of this noisy intrusion. Their immensity fills you with awe. The 
ladies on the galleries of the summer cottages, on the lower terrace, more hos- 
pitable than the beetling cliffs, wave their welcome to these lofty eyries with 
handkerchiefs and veils. And while you return the salutations the train dashes 
under the trestle of the "Incline'' aud speeds upward with quick pulsations 



AND Lookout Mountain. 37 

until it rounds the bluff where stands ''Lookout Mountain House" and its 
smiliug cottages. The giant halts and you may alight. 

You will now repair to the hotel and secure your carriage, as aforesaid, if 
you intend visiting Rock City and Lulu Lake. But before starting walk over to 
the bluff, on which stands a pretty summer-house. There you have a charming 
view of the valley, with the low line of Missionary Ridge on the east, and of 
the silvery river laving the feet of the city towards the north. Beyond Mission- 
ary Ridge are the foot hills that recall Chickamauga. 

On this spot is frequently seen a remarkable phenomenon at sunrise. The 
valley is then filled up with a dense fog, entirely concealing it and the city, 
though not reaching quite up to the level of your point of observation. The 
sun, rising over Missionary Ridge, gives the white mist the appearance of the 
ocean, its waves rolling over the ridges, while the higher peaks of the foot hills 
loom up like islands in an Archipelago. The scene is indescribably lovely. 

In the afternoons of summers there are other visions of loveliness, and which 
are never seen outside of such envinmments. Seated on this bluff you will fre- 
quently discover wreaths of vapor gracefully ascending here and there in the 
sunshine, to be kissed by cooling breezes, and descend in showers of pearis. 
The writer has counted as many as fifteen of those sunshine showers falling at 
one time iu the valley beneath you, «ach shower bedewing an area of only a few 
hundred yards. The rainbow effects which sometimes accompany these showers 
are like those that were known to Solomon, when he said, "It compasseth the 
heaven about with a glorious circle, and the hands of the Most High have bended 
it." He who would attempt to paint such beauty must first dip his brush in 
dyes of heaven. 

To visit Rock City and Lulu Lake follow the directions given in Route Xo. 1. 
But if you do not wish to drive there you can stroll along the brow of the moun- 
tain, or go over to the ''is'atural Bridge House" on foot. 

If you do not alight from the train at Lookout Mountain House your train 
will whirl you over a tall trestle, beyond the Natural Bridge House, with its 
cottages and amphitheater, until the site of the park is reached, in which they 
are erecting a magnificent hotel. 

From the park station you go on foot to the "Point." Do not halt at "Rock 
Bluff"; it will mar the effects of the vision at the "Point." i^either should 
you stop to climb "Observation Rock," or insist upon having a glimpse from 
"Signal Rock." Do not indulge more than a glance at curious "Umbrella 
Rock," but rush right down to the " Point." There you will be entranced. 

And before we speak of the "Point" let us inhale a fragrant breath of these 
glorious mouDtams. Surely the prophecy of the wrapt Isaiah is here fulfilled : 
Yea, verily, the mountains and the hills break forth into singing, and all the 
trees of the valley do clap their hands for joy. These lofty hills raise their 
voices to the heavens, while the vales around, with their groves and streams, 
and human life, resound the notes, and "Let us worship God," they say with 
solemn sound. 



S3 



Historical Guide to Chattanooga 



''The Point." 

ITothing short of the divinely imparted descriptive afflatus is sufficient now. 
The view is unobstructed — beautiful, sublime. Down from the mountains of 
East Tennessee, 1^'orth Carolina and Virginia flows the broad Tennessee, gleam- 
ing in silvery whiteness through the purple haze that hangs over the hills, and 
Lovingly entering the valley that lies at your feet. The piers of the Cincinnati 
railway bridge show you where Sherman crossed that river and scaled the heights 
the morning of the battle of Missionary Ridge. Beyond the flag that floats 
above the i^ational City of the Dead is Orchard Knob, the headquarters of Grant, 




RICUAKDSUN BLlLUIXa. 



AND Lookout MouNTAI^. 39 

and on the Ridge, due east of where-you stand, a lone tree marks the site of the 
headquarters of Bragg. What memories these historic spots recall ! 

In front of your lofty observatory is "Moccasin Bend," which the river has 
formed from the tongue of land that separates Chattanooga from the ridges on 
the "west. Note the toe, the heel, the ankle, the almost perfect image of the 
Indian shoe. In the early summer the fields of waving grain, interspersed with 
patches of meadow and shade, give impressions of a beautiful garden, fenced 
with silver, and guarded from rude approach of storms by forest-clad hills just 
above the ankle. Many a lady has exclaimed, "It is an exquisite crazy quilt," 
and not a few masculines have poetically declared, "It is Eden." 

Between you and the city, which spreads out around the base of Cameron 
Hill— its avenues and public buildings plainly visible, its very house signs being 
easily read with a glass — is the manufacturing district, the smoke of whose fac- 
tories form a veil over the houses' of the operatives. Ah ! there is the source of 
Chattanooga's prosperity, and we will go with you to these factories to-morrow. 
Let us further scan the landscape. 

On the northern extremity of Missionary Ridge we can detect among the 
heavy foliage the cottages and church spire of "Sherman Heights," the farthest 
away of our suburbs. Just a little beyond, at the base, is the village of Boyce, 
the junction of the Cincinnati Southern and the "Western & Atlantic Railways. 
Nearer in are the cottages of "Stanley Town," a suburb set apart to colored 
people exclusively. Foaming up on the bosom of the ridge is the pretty suburb 
of Ridgedale, and as you peer through the haze, just over the beetling cliff be- 
yond the photograph gallery you catch a glimpse of pretty East Lake, Chatta- 
nooga's favorite valley resort in the summer. Perhaps your eye can follow the 
train of the Union Railway as it winds around the lake on its way back to the city. 

No pen, no matter how deeply dipped in romance, poetry and imagination, 
can describe the landscape you now behold. Nor is it in limner's power to 
transfer to canvas this prospect of hills and vales, of streams and lawns, of 
spires and factories, for the scene is ever changing, ever new ; and with its shad- 
ing of sun and cloud never like what it was an hour before. There are loftier 
mountains, more sublime stretches of precipice and beetling cliff, taller peaks 
and deeper gorges, but there is no spot on this western world where beauty is so 
charmingly united to sublimity, and where one's soul is so thrilled without being 
awed by appalling surroundings. 

Glance at the two pretty streams that bend and curve through the valleys 
on each side of you and empty their excess of fructifying blessings into the river 
in front ; look away beyond Sunset Rock to the last of the Appalachian hills 
vanishing on the plains of Alabama, and then look up to the great plateau of the 
Cumberland, where is established the University of the South, and the Southern 
Chautauqua — Monteagle. This mountain wall divides Tennessee into Eastern 
and Middle. Turn around, and the mountains you see away to the north and 
east are in Yinginia, the Carolinas and Georgia. Directly eastward, and beyond 
Missionary Ridge, are the mountains that bound the battle-field of Chickamauga 
and through which Sherman marched and fought to Atlanta. Five States com- 
pose this glorious panorama. 



40 



Historical Guide to Chattanooga 



^#ilv>;!^f!^15i^ 



!!i!'!iiil;M!:li 




^||l|l(M!iB^»^. 




AND Lookout Mountain. 41 

On the west the mountain wall is pierced by a gateway, through which the 
Tennessee flows out of this valley on its way to the sea. Reluctantly does this 
mountain give it passage, for the broken edges of the chasm abut right on the 
water's edge for miles. And the river itself appears to leave with equal reluc- 
tance, while it forms an island-heart as a symbol of its afi"ection for the vale it is 
leaving. And ever and anon this seemingly gentle stream rises up to emphasize 
its affection for the enchanted valley, by euibracing the lowlands and bathing 
the dusty feet of the highlands. Thousands annually reciprocate this affection 
by floating on its placid bosom, in excursions, through the exquisite scenery its 
-channel has created. 

While you gaze on all this loveliness you can scarcely be persuaded that 
twenty-five years ago these now peaceful valleys were filled with armed men, 
thirsting for each others blood; and that up the slope of that mountain where 
now are white houses, orchards and vineyards, these same armed men rushed 
through a storm of iron hail. But the emerald green knoll over yonder, 
with wall and massive gateway, and dotted with specks of white marb/d, tell 
the story of those terrible days. And that melancholy story is continued in an- 
other green spot, shaded by elms aud willows, near the bank of the river. There 
the heroes of the blue and the grey await the resuirection trump. 

Leaving the "Point," you take the pathway that leads by the "Umbrella" 
to the stairs that descend from Roper's Rock. Descending these steps and the 
rugged pathway you quickly reach the platform of the ]^ arrow Gauge Railway, 
and the lower gallery of Lookout Point Hotel. From this platform you will 
take the train for 

Sunset Rock. 

Lookout Yalley, with its green fields, white houses, meandering brooks and 
iron highways, is in full view from the windows of your car. The Tennessee 
•disappears just as a locomotive screams good-bye while the train hurries away 
into Alabama. 

Soon you reach the Rock, which is projected boldly out from the mountain, 
and on which a photograph gallery is securely anchored. From this point, in 
mid-air, the Confederates watched the Federals mauoeuvering for the relief of the 
garrison of Chattanooga. And here is frequently seen as brilliant sunsets as 
occur in any part of the world. In certain kinds of weather the vision of the 
god of day descending beyond lofty Cumberland, to lay aside his robes, is pecu- 
liarly beautiful. The sun always descends slowly and regularly until half its 
disc is concealed, and then it seems instantly to drop out of sight, as if to con- 
ceal its blushes over this exposure of his couch. 

During the summer evenings, when storms gather about the mountains, the 
sunsets are most beautiful. The writer has seen several of these ; one he remem- 
bers most vividly. While he stood gazing at the contending elements the black 
cloud which veiled the sun suddenly parted, revealing beyond a vista of cloudy 
«mbankments a gloriously illuminated chamber of purple and gold, which grad- 
ually expanded, changing itstints, until the whole became a heavenly landscape, 
through which, we fancied, could be seen flowing the ' pellucid water of the 



42 



Historical Guide to Chattanooga 



River of Life. And while we stood entranced, oblivious to surroundings, there 
descended a gauzy veil, leaving in front of it an avenue of crystal and azure, 
bounded by walls of gold and sapphire. The next moment there drooped upon 
these walls banners of scarlet and purple. They remained but a minute, when 
all vanished. The sun had gone entirely out of sight. 

Ascending to the railway station you again enter the coach and are whirled 
back to the Point along the terrace cut out of the bosom of the mountain, sheer 
precipices frowning above you, deep gorges yawning beneath you. The ride is 
short but thrilling, and the impressions you receive will never be eflaced. 

The train halts at the hotel, which stands upon solid rock, each story having 
a broad gallery, from which the guests feast their eyes on the beauties above, 
below and around them. During all seasons of the year the views from this 
particular spot are charming. 

The Incline Railway. 

Toii are now at the head of the Incline, and its pretty car awaits you. The 
seats are parallel to the rails, but are raised in parquet style, so that passengers 
may see over each others heads. The faces of the passengers are toward the 
east, whether ascending or descending. Two great ropes of steel sweep *long 




I 



ROCK CITY. 



AND Lookout Mountain. 43 

the sheayes between the rails, one drawing your car downward, the other draw- 
ing a corresponding car upward. While you gaze a sensation akin to floating in 
air seizes upon you, and you feel exhilarated. The pleasure continues even 
when you reach precipitous "Jacob's Ladder," for you are certain of the safety 
of the machinery. You pass the ascending car, and salute its occupants, and 
once more look out over the beautiful valley. Soon you see the breath of white 
steam arising from the building at the foot of the Incline, in the tower of which 
you discover the engineer who guides your car. The engines and hoiating ma- 
chinery are beneath his feet. 

From the Incline station you can return by horse car to the city, passing in 
full view of the South Tredegar Iron Works, the Abbattoir, Tannery, Blast Fur- 
nace, the handsome residences on College Hill and East Terrace, ih& Palace 
Hotel and Read House, and alight at the Union Passenger Depot. 

3. BY THE INCLmB AND NARROW GAUGE. 

Ton take horse cars that pass in front of the Union Passenger Depot. These 
will deliver you, in summer time, at the station of the Lookout Incline. Taking 
the cosy little car the ascent is made with your face looking down the track, 
the floor of the car being parallel to the rails. As you ascend you catch glimpses, 
of St. Elmo, of the hills topped with cottages above East Lake, and then of 
Chattanooga and the Tennessee. In a few minutes you are on the lower gallery 
of the company's large hotel. 

From these galleries you have an exquisite view of the valley and of the cot- 
tages and gardens of the field of the 

"Battle Above the Clouds.'' 

It would seem a pity to spoil the poetic battle which war correspondents cre- 
ated out of the skirmish that occurred on this open' space, with its fringe of 
woods concealing the tall precipice that overhangs the Nashville, Chattanooga 
& St. Louis Railway, as it skirts the river on its outward passage to the .valley 
on your left. The story related by Gen. Hooker in his report (Conduct of the 
War, p. 167) would be amusing to you now as you gaze upon this peaceful 
spot. Hooker says : 

"After two or three short but sharp conflicts the plateau was cleared, the 
enemy, with his reinforcements, driven from the walls and pits around Craven's 
house, the last point at which he could make a stand in force, and, all broken 
and dismayed, were hurled over the rocks and precipices into the valley." 

What became of those "rocks and precipices" over which Fighting Joe 
hurled those ill-fated Confederates is a question that not even the "Bohemian" 
is able to answer. The facts seem to be about as follows : 

On November 23, 1863, Gen. Hooker's corps encamped in the valley west of 
where you stand. A battery of rifled guns wa^ planted on Moccasin Bend, in 
front. The Federal army occupied the city of Chattanooga. The Confederates 
were in possession of Lookout Mountain top, and occupied the pallisades and 
the plateau beneath you, the valley on the ea.st and Missionary Ridge. 



44 



Historical Guide to Chattanooga 



About 11 o'clock of the morning of the 24th the battery on Moccasin Bend 
opened furiously on the Confederates in the valley, while Hooker advanced from 
the west. Skirmishing soon began on the western side of the mountain, while a 
cloud slowly settled down upon the Coufedrates, on the plateau, entirely con- 
cealing them from the Federals. The Federals were not discovered by the Con- 
federate brigade at Craven's house until they were only a few yards away. For 
about half an hour the Confederate general— Wal thai — kept up a sort of running 
fire, slowly falling back until fully one-half of his men were made prisoners. 
Yery few were killed on either side, owing to darkness, the movements occurring 
in the cloud and not above it. The firing of artillery on the Moccasin and from 
Fort ISTegly, near Chattanooga, gave Gen. Hooker his idea of the "roar of bat- 
tle," and yet Gen. Grant correctly states it when he says ''there was no battle 
fought on Lookout Mountain." During the night firing was kept up, at short 
intervals, as the Confederates evacuated the mountain, along what is now called 
the ''old road," seen on your right; and when the morning dawned the flag of 
the Union floated from the Point, having been planted there by a member of the 
8th Kentucky Regiment just at dawn. In addition to the heavy fog which cov- 
ered the valley during the entire night, there was an eclipse of the moon. 

Taking the Narrow Gauge coach you are carried along the bosom of the 
•mountain, where, from the valley beneath, the train resembles a tin toy of 




a^fti-fe^PS 




LULU LAKK. 



AND Lookout Mountaik. 45 

Christmas days, and presently you reach Sunset Rock, which is described in 
Route 2. 

From Sunset Rock you can take carriage for "Natural Bridge" and for Rock 
City and Lulu Lake, returning to the city by the Broad Gauge Railway, if you 
prefer. 

This is but a hasty examination of Historic Lookout, and is prepared for tour- 
ists, who are always in a hurry. Those who have leisure can spend weeks upon 
its lofty summit, enjoying its breezes in summer time, and its dry air in winter. 
They can dream of the Indian possession ; yes, of the Indians who came and dis- 
appeared before the Cherokees, and can read the story of the Cherokee possession 
and ejectment. And then they can visit the camping grounds of the armies of 
the Union and of the Confederacy ; the site of the great hospital, and of the 
corn mill that stood at the head of the glen, when the Western Republic was 
passing under the tribulum of disintegration. Though the writer wore the grey, 
and has ever been true to the sunny land of his adoption, he never visits this 
mountain without thanking God that there is but one Country, one Union, one 
Constitution ; and offering a silent prayer that He wiU continue in the future, as 
He has done in the past, to take care of His own. 



46 



Historical Guide to Chattanooga 



iff 



* 




AND Lookout Mountain. 47 



THE BATTLE-FIELDS. 



The three battles of the war for the preservation of the Union which have 
made this section famous are — in the order of their occurrence — the Battle of 
Lookout Mountain, the Battle of Chickamauga, and the Battle of Missionary 
Kidge. Of these we will attempt general outlines only. 

Lookout is reached by railways described elsewhere. Missionary Ridge is 
reached by the Electric Railway and by the Chattanooga, Rome & Columbus 
Railway. Chickamauga is reached by carriage over the Rossville turnpike, and 
by the trains of the Chattanooga, Rome & Columbus Railway. 

If you desire to visit Chickamauga by carriage from Chattanooga you will 
drive out through Chattanooga Talley, over the Rossville turnpike road, and, 
passing the John Ross House, turn to the left. When you reach the corner of 
the Kelley farm you will enter the battle-field of Saturday, and if your guide is 
posted, you wiU be shown where brilliant charges and scenes of carnage laiVI 
many a noble spirit low. Even at this late day much attention is given to ou 
ting down trees scarred with bullet-holes. Every bullet has left its cicatrix, and 
many a tree shows a score of wounds. 

Soon you emerge upon a glade, on the southern skirts of which the Federals 
threw up the temporary breast-works on the uigJit of the 19th. Crossing the 
Lafayette highway again, you take a country road and drive to the residence of 
G. "W. Snodgrass— himself a landmark of the early days of Chattanooga— which 
stands at the base of Horseshoe Ridge, on which General Thomas established 
his headquarters, and where the fiercest struggle of that terrible two days' battle 
occurred on the evening of Sunday, September 20th. This humble cabin was 
then used as a hospital, and as you now stand in the shadow of its surrounding 
shade trees you can look up to the beautiful knoll, sleeping in peace, and dream 
of that terrible day when brother fell by the hand of brother in a most unnec- 
essary and ever-to-be-regretted war. 

From the Snodgrass House the visitor can travel by neighborhood and public 
roads to the well known points of the field ; from McAfee's Church to Crawfish 
Springs. The tour can easily be made in one day. 

If you prefer to visit Chickamauga by railway, take, the train in the Central 
Passenger Depot. The first stop will be on the summit of Missionary Ridge. 
The next will be ''Chickamauga Battle-field" Station. There you will leave 
your train, unless you prefer to continue on to Crawfish Springs. 

Close to this station is the site of Widow Glenn's House. There remain only 
the decayed gate-posts, the stone- walled well, the scattered bricks of the chim- 
ney; and a couple of peach trees. At this writing these are discovered in a 



48 



Historical Guide to Chattanooga 



K^ yir luu ^.<r SCALE, miLES,^V^ 



SCALE, n\ILE^ 



■\ 




AND Lookout Mountain. 4» 

corner of a growing field of wheat. A few hundred yards distant the gallant 
Lytle fell, when Longstreet made his brilliant charge. 

It is about one and a half miles from this station to the Snodgrass House and 
Horseshoe Eidge; a half mile east of that ridge is the Kelley House, on the 
farm that "formed the key of the Union position." 

No tourist should fail to visit Crawfish Springs, not only because there began 
the sanguinary battle, but because of the natural wonder. A livery stable at 
that point will accommodate all visitors desiring to drive over the field. 

The several points of historic interest in the Battle of Missionary Ridge can 
Oe reached by the Union Railway, the Electric Railway and the C, R. & C. 
Railway. Orchard Knob is a station on the Union Railway, and Sherman 
Heights on the E. T.,Y. & G. Railway. In fact, all the battle-fields can be 
easily and comfortably visited. 

BATTLE OP CHICKAMAQGA. 

On the 8th of September, 1863, General Bragg, of the Confederate army, hav- 
tag discov'ered that the Federal army threatened his left and rear, evacuated 
Chattanooga, and it was immediately occupied by General Rosecrans, of the 
Federal army, thus winning the prize of the campaign without firing a gun. 
fhe pursuit of the Confederates was soon undertaken, and when this movement 
began Bragg attempted to flank Rosecrans and throw his army between the 
main Federal s,vmj and the garrison at Chattanooga. On the 18th of Septem- 
ber both armies stotrd glaring at each other on the banks of the Chickamauga — 
murky ''River of Death.'' Bragg had received reinforcements from the Army 
of Yirginia, under Longstreet. 

On the 18th there was consi(>«raole tskirmishing and manceuvering for position. 
And on the 19th the storm burst with pitiless fury. By 10 a. m. the engagement 
(vas general; now the Confederates weie louted, only to rally and hurl back, 
with sickening slaughter, the hosts of the Union, Until late in the afternoon 
vhe conflict raged, when suddenly an omiiivnis Juli fell upon the dead, the dying 
and the weary. JSTot a gun was heard for over an hour. Rosecrans was deceived 
into the belief that his enemy had been sufficiently punished for one day, and 
began the execution of strategic movements ; but scarcely had the hour ended 
when a furious charge by the Confederates threw the F'jdeial lines into con- 
fusion, and had it not been for the twenty guns of Hazen, on the Rossville road, 
the day would have closed with a most telling victory for the Confederates. 
The galling enfilading fire of this artillery compelled the Confedera.)es to fall 
back as the sun went down beyond distant Lookout. 

When darkness enveloped the bloody scene, arrangements were made for 
burying the dead and caring for the wounded by both sides. Bragg reformed 
his lines soon after nightfall, ana placed them in direct command of Polk, on the 
right, with five divi>ions, and Longstreet, on the left, with six divisions. This 
changing of organization in the face of the enemy proved to be a fatal mistake. 
The quaint reply of Mr. Lincoln when asked to commit a similar blunder should 
have been repeated to the Confederate General: "It is a bad plan to swaj» 
4 



50 Historical Guide to Chattanooga 

horses in the middle of a stream." Bragg might not have heeded the homely 
wisdom, for the fates had already written failure over against his name. 

Polk was ordered to strike at dawn of the 20th, but the reverend general 
slept away from his lines during the night of the 19th, and used the early day- 
light of the 20th to read a newspaper at Alexander's bridge, which, as Bragg 
angrily told General D. H. Hill, "was two miles from the line of battle, where 
he ought to have been fighting." Polk did not begin the executing of Bragg's 
order until nearly 9 o'clock, a delay which cost him his command. When he 
began the assault, the entire line was quickly involved. Back went the Confed- 
erate right, but almost instantly rallied. Charge after charge attested the 
heroism of the combatants. The onslaught on the Federal left ceased when the 
irresistible charges of the Confederates broke their center. Then, it is said, 
Rosecrans made several fatal mistakes. Certain it is that he telegraphed to 
"Washington his army was defeated. Great soldier though he was, he had lost 
his head. 

Thomas maintained his ground and gallantly withstood the charges of the 
Confederates, now flushed with victory. " Like a lion at bay he repulsed the 
terrible onslaughts of the enemy" on the knoll above the Snodgrass House, 
where he had ordered the artillery massed to make his last stand. Strong lines 
of infantry, commanded by Brannan and Steedman, skirted this elevated spot, 
which resisted with almost unparalleled gallantry the assaults on their front and 
flanks. As the sun began to go down behind the tall pines, on that Sabbath 
afternoon, the storm burst anew around the Snodgrass knoll. Charge after 
charge was repelled with terrible slaughter to both sides. The dead lay in heaps 
along the green slopes, and the groans of the wounded rent the air as darkness 
enveloped the enraged combatants, and Thomas sorrowfully began his retreat to 
Rossville, leaving the field and most of his dead and wounded in possession of 
the Confederates. 

Gen. Hill makes this allusion to the opposing generals in a foot note to his 
excellent paper in the Century : 

"Bragg had great respect and affection for the first lieutenant of his battery. 
The tones of tenderness with which he spoke of 'Old Tom' are still well remem- 
bered by me. 

"Both of these illustrious Southerners dropped dead of heart disease: Thomas 
in San Francisco in 1870, and Bragg in Galveston in 1876. Did the strain upon 
them in those terrible days at Chiokamauga hasten their death 1 " 

On the following day Thomas placed his lines around Chattanooga, while 
Bragg, instead of pursuing his victory, took possession of Missionary Ridge, 
Chattanooga Yalley and the summit of Lookout. His hope was to starve^ the 
army now blockaded in Chattanooga. To accomplish this he seized the railway 
at the point of Lookout Mountain. 

The Confederate Gen. HlQ bears testimony to the courage of his great oppo- 
nent in these words : 

" Thomas had received orders after Granger's arrival to retreat to Rof«sville, 
but, stout soldier as he was, he resolved to hold his ground until nightfall. An 
hour more of daylight would have insured his capture. Thomas had under him 



AND Lookout Mountain. 51 

all the Federal army, except the six brigades which had been driven off by the 
left wing." 

Gen. Fullerton tells the story of one of the terrible charges on the Horseshoe 
in these few words : 

" The enemy massed a force to retake the ridge. They came before our men 
had rested; twice they assaulted and were driven back. During one assault, as 
the first line came within range of our muskets, it halted, apparently hesitating, 
when we saw a colonel seize a flag, wave it over his head, and rush forward. 
The whole Ime instantly caught his enthusiasm, and with a wild cheer followed, 
only to be hurled back again. Our men ran down the ridge in pursuit. In the 
midst of a group of Confederate dead and wounded they found the brave colonel 
dead, the flag he carried spread over him where he fell." 

A month after the disaster of Chickamauga Gen. Rosecrans was relieved and 
Gen. Thomas was placed in command of the Army of the Cumberland. 

Rosecrans and Bragg have been censured for their conduct of this battle. 
Strange to say, neither general took advantage of the mistakes of the other. It 
is beyond controversy that the Federal general was the abler commander of the 
two. It is pretty generally conceded that had Bragg been Rosecran's equal the 
gallant Army of the Cumberland would have been annihilated. Bragg repeated 
the tactics of Cave City, Perryville and Murfreesboro, and again allowed victory 
to escape. 

Rosecrans' order to "Wood to "close upon Reynolds and support him," and 
his hasty return to Chattanooga from the field, are said to have been fatal blun- 
ders. The Confederate Gen, Hill says this of the first mistake : 

"Brannan was between Reynolds and Wood, The order 'to close upon Rey- 
nolds' was naturally enough interpreted by Wood to support Reynolds, and not, 
as it seems Rosecrans meant, to close to the left. He withdrew his division and 
began his march to the left and in rear of Brannan. A gap was left into which 
Longstreet stepped with the eight brigades (Bushrod Johnson's, McXair's, 
Gregg's, Kershaw's, Law's, Humphreys', Benning's and Robertson's), which he 
had arranged in three lines to constitute his grand column of attack. Davis' 
two brigades, one of Yan Cleve's, and Sheridan's entire division were caught in 
front and flank and driven from the field. Disregarding the order of the day, 
Longstreet now gave the order to wheel to the right instead of the left, and 
thus take in reverse the strong position of the enemy. Five of McCook's bri- 
gades were speedily driven off the field. He estimates their loss at forty per 
cent." 

The part played by Longstreet in this battle was worthy of his great fame in 
those days. The rapid transfer of his troops from "Virginia to Georgia was kept 
a profound secret from the Federals. On the 15th of September Gen, Halleck 
telegraphed to Gen, Rosecrans that Bragg had not been re-enforced from "Vir- 
ginia. At that moment Bragg and Longstreet may have been shaking hands. 
Indeed, Longstreet's arrival was as great a surprise to Rosecrans as was IS^'a- 
poleon's descent upon Marengo to'Gen. Melas, He seemed to have dropped out 
of the heavens. This should go to Gen. Rosencrans' credit. 

Gen, Hill relates an incident of the battle, which is fuU of pathos, and worthy 



52 Historical Guide to Chattanooga 

of perpetuity. The general tells : "la the lull of the strife I went with a staff 
officer to examine the ground on our left. One of Helm's wounded men had 
been overlooked, and was lying alone in the woods, his head partly supported 
by a tree. He was shocldngly injured. He belonged to Yon Zinken's regiment, 
of ^ew Orleans, composed of French, Germans and Irish. I said to him: 'My 
poor fellow, you are badly hurt. What regiment do you belong to?' Here- 
plied : 'The Fifth Confederit, and a dommed good regiment it is.' The answer, 
though almost ludicrous, touched me as illustrating the es2)rit de corps of the 
soldier — his pride in and his aflfection for his command. Col. Yon Zinken told 
me afterward that one of his desperately wounded Irishmen cried out to his com- 
rades : ' Charge them, boys ; they have cha-ase (cheese) in their haversacks.' 
Poor Pat, he has fought courageously in every land in quarrels not his own." 

And on the same iield where lay this son of Erin fell the gallant Gen. W. H. 
Lytle, who wrote 

"I am dying, Egypt, dying, 
Ebbs the crimson life-tide fast." 

Col. Archer Anderson estimates the relative strength of the two armies: 
"From an examination of the original returns in the War Department, I reckon, 
in round numbers, the Federal infantry and artillery on the field at fifty-nine 
thousand, and the Confederate infantry and artillery at fifty-five thousand. 
The Federal cavalry, about ten thousand strong, was outnumbered by the Con- 
federates by a thousand men. Thus speak the returns. Perhaps a deduction of 
five thousand men from the reported strength of each army would more nearly 
represent the actual strength of the combatants. It is, I think, certain that 
Rosecrans was stronger in infantry and artillery than Bragg by at least four 
thousand men." 

Of these fully twenty-seven thousand were killed or wounded. 

"We make the following extract from the small war volume issued by Gen. H. 
M. Cist, entitled "The Army of the Cumberland." Gen. Cist was A. A. G. on 
the staflF of Gen. Rosecrans, and afterward on the staff of Gen. Thomas : 

"All things considered, the battle of Chickamauga, for the forces engaged, 
was the hardest fought and bloodiest battle of the Rebellion 

"To the enemy, the results of the engagement proved a victory barren of 
any lasting benefits, and produced no adequate results to the immense drain on 
the resources of his army. In a number of places Bragg's official report shows 
that his army was so crippled that he was not able to strengthea one portion of 
his line, when needed, with troops from another part of the field; and after the 
conflict was over, his army was so cut up that it was impossible for him to fol- 
low up his apparent success and secure possession of the objective point of the 
campaign — Chattanooga. This great gateway of the mountains remaining in 
possession of the Army of the Cumberland, after Bragg had paid the heavy price 
he did at Chickamauga, proves that his battle was a victory only in name, and a 
careful examination of the results and their cost will show how exceedingly 
small it was to the enemy." 

So much is all that our space permits for the story of the sanguinary field of 
Chickamauga. l^To wonder the blue and the grey are now united in an effort to 



AND Lookout Mountain. 53 

erect thereon memorials of American valor, as has already been done at Gettya- 
burg. ISTo wonder that Wheeler, one of the great cavalry generals on the Con- 
federate side, and now a member of Congress, hurries to meet Rosecrans in this 
year of national peace and prosperity, 1889, to help establish the battle lines 
and positions, and lay out the boundaries of a park that shall be a Mecca to those 
who honor the memory of Rosecrans, Bragg, Thomas, Longstreet, Granger, 
Hill, Brannan, Breckinridge, Steedman, Cleburne, Wheeler, Lytle, and the rest 
of the heroes who participated in the conflict. And the inquiry then will not 
be, "Who won the battle?" but "Who fought the Bravest and died the Purest?" 
on both sides. In deed and in truth it will then be acknowledged a " drawn 
battle." 



BATTLE OF MISSIONARY RIDGE. 

The Federal authorities allude to this series of combats as the "Battles of 
Chattanooga, Lookout Mountain and Missionary Ridge.'' 

On the 18th of October, 1863, Gen. U. S. Grant af^sumed command of the De- 
partment of Tennessee and Gen. George H. Thomas remained in command of 
the Army of the Cumberland. The Confederates held Lookout Mountain and 
the railway at its base, as well as the valley of Chattanooga and Missionary 
Ridge. 

The Federal base of supplies was at Bridgeport and Stevenson, fifty-one 
miles distant by wagon road, and they were transported by wagons through Se- 
quachee Valley, and over the mountains that surround Chattanooga. As the 
autumn advanced this mountain road became almost impassable, and starvation 
threatened the garrison of the mountain city. By a well planned and skillfully 
executed strategic movement Lookout Yalley was opened on October 28th, and 
on ifovember ]st the "siege of Chattanooga, by the forces of nature," was 
raised. The Confederates were still on the Federal front, on Lookout and Mis- 
sionary Ridge, and in the Chattanooga Yalley. 

We learn from official reports that on the 15th of iJ^'ovember, 1863, Gen. Grant 
had concentrated 80,000 troops in and around Chattanooga, and that 50,000 Con- 
federates occupied Lookout and Missionary Ridge, Longstreet having gone on a 
"wild goose chase" to Knoxville. On the 23d, Grant undertook the raising of 
the seige on his front by ordering Gen. Thomas to make an armed reconnaissance 
to develop the Confederate lines, which was done in the early morning By 1 
p. M. Sherman had crossed the Tennessee at the northern extremity of Mission- 
ary Ridge, and at 4 o'clock he had a heavy engagement in an effort to seize the 
second hill of the Ridge, the one through which passes the railway tunnel. He 
was repulsed; GraDger had already captured "Orchard Knob," and soon dark 
ness closed the combat. 

If the reader will drive out to the site of Fort Wood he will at a glance take 
in the positions of both armies on that day. Where you stand, great guns 
frowned defiance to the enemy entrenched on Missionary Ridge in front. Be- 
tween you and the Ridge is the conical mound, with its houses and scrubby shade, 



54 Historical Guide to Chattanooga 

known as Orchard Knob, and held a part of that day by the Confederates. Be- 
yond this knob is Missionary Ridge, now covered with orchards and vineyards, 
and dotted with happy homes, but on that day of strife rocky and wrinkled with 
ravines, and uninhabited. The northern extremity of this ridge is where Sher- 
man ascended, and the second and lowest depression south of it i« where the 
railroad sweeps through a tunnel. 

Early in the morning of the 24th the movements were continued. Hooker 
bridged swollen Lookout Creek, in full view of Stevenson, whose lines were 
posted on the summit of Lookout. The mist hanging over the valley concealed 
from the observatory of the Confederates the advancing column of the Federal 
Geary. The Cimfederate Gen. Walthal, with a small force, held the terrace of 
the mountain, just under the "Point," known as the Craven place, over which 
Hooker would have to pass to reach the valley of Chattanooga. The skirmish- 
ing on that lofty field we briefly describe elsewhere as the "Battle Above the 
Clouds." 

On the 25th began the battle of Missionary Ridge proper. During the long, 
long day the battle raged with relentless fury. At 4 p. m. the Federal lines, 
which filled the valley, moved rapidly forward, at a signal of six gaus, fired in 
rapid succession on Orchard Knob, up the slopes of the rifle-pits of the Confed- 
erates, under a galling and destructive fire of musketry. Over the rifle-pits, 
thinly occupied by the depleted division of the Confederates, but gallantly de- 
fended, swept line after line of the victorious Federals, and when the sun went 
down the Confederates were routed, the Federals held the Ridge, and from that 
time forward remained in undisputed possession of Chattanooga. 

The battle was fierce and decisive, and the losses very heavy. Bragg said in 
his report: "The enemy having secured much of our artillery, soon availed 
themselves of our panic, and, turning our guns upon us enfiladed our lines both 
right and left, rendering them wholly untenable." Grant said "they encoun- 
tered a fearful volley of grape and caunister from near thirty pieces of artillery 
and musketry from still well-filled rifle-pits on the summit." Both sides recog- 
nized this battle as one of the most important and decisive of the war, and one 
in which both armies displayed the highest courage and the most brilliant feats 
of gallantry. 

The Confederates retreated in the direction of Ringgold, by way of Chicka- 
mauga Station, leaving behind 600 prisoners and a host of stragglers, forty can- 
non and 7,000 stand of small arms. 

Kext morning Sherman pushed on to Graysville, and Palmer and Hooker took 
the Rossville road. At Ringgold the Confederates, under the brilliant Cleburne, 
turned and attacked Hooker. It was a severe combat, lasting the entire day. 
The Federals £ufi"ered large losses, many being experienced officers. Bragg 
continued on to Dalton, and Grant sent relief to Burnside, who was closely in- 
vrste-d at Knoxrille by Longstreet. That was the first result of Missionary 
Ridge. 

The following extract from Gen. Cist's book may add a little spice to our tame 
dsscription of this battle, and is inserted without comment: 

"On the crest of the hill Bragg's me.i had constructed their heaviest breast- 



AND Lookout Mountain. 55 

■works, protected on our front by some fifty pieces of artillery in position. As 
our troops advanced, each command cheering and answering back the cheers of 
the others, the men broke into a double-quick, all striving to be the first to 
reach the rifle-pits at the foot of the ridge, held by a strong line of the enemy's 
troops. The Confederates opened fire irith shot and shell from their batteries as 
our troops advanced, changing it soon to grape and cannister, which, with the 
fire from the infantry, made it terrifically hot. Dashing through this, over an 
open plain, our soldiers swept on, driving the enemy's skirniishers, charging 
down on the line of works at the foot of the ridge, capturing it at the point of 
the bayonet, and routing the rebels, sending them at full speed up the ridge, 
killing and capturing them in great numbers. The troops lay down at the foot 
of the ridge awaiting orders. Under no orders from their officers, first on© regi- 
ment and then another started with its colors up the ascent, until, ■with loud 
hurrahs, the entire line, cheered by their officers, advanced over and around 
rocks, under and through the fallen timber, charged up the ridge, each deter- 
mined to reach the summit first. In some cases the Confederates were bayo- 
neted at their guns. The charge occupied about one hour from the time of the 
firing of the guns on Orchard Knob until our troops occupied the rebel lines on 
the ridge." 

Sherman says : " Grant told me * that the men of Thomas' army had been so 
demoralized by the battle of Chick amauga that he feared they could not be got 
out of their trenches to assume the oflFensive,' and that 'the Army of the Cum- 
berland had so long been in the trenches that he wanted my troops to hurry up 
to take the oflTeusive first, after which he had no doubt the Cumberland Army 
would fight well.' So, under Grant's plan, the Army of the Cumberland was to 
stand by and be taught a grand object lesson how to fight, as given by Sherman. 

""Whenever the victory of Missionary Ridge shall be narrated on history's 
page, the gallant charge of the brave men of Wood's and Sheridan's divisions, 
with those of Baird and Johnson on the left and right, will always be the prom- 
inent feature of the engagement as told in the coming years, and ■will be the last 
to lose its glory and renown. 

''No wonder that Gen. Grant failed to appreciate this movement at the time, 
not understanding the troops who had it in charge. When he found these com- 
mands ascending the ridge to capture it when he ordered a 'demonstration' to 
be made to the foot of the hill and there to wait, he turned sharply to Gen. 
Thomas and asked, 'By whose orders are those troops going up the hillf Gen. 
Thomas, taking in the situation at once, suggested that it was probably by their 
own. Gen. Grant remarked that 'it was all right if it turned out all right,' and 
added, 'if not, some one will sufi"er.' But it turned out 'all right/ and Grant 
in his official report compliments the troops for 'following closely the retreating 
enemy without further orders.'" 

Gen. Grant thus describes the ascent of Missionary Ridge: "The troops 
moved forward, drove the enemy from the rifle-pits at the base of the ridge like 
bees from a hive, stopped but a moment until the whole were in line, and com- 



56 Historical Guide to Chattanooga 

meuced the ascent of the mountain from right to left almost simultaneonsly, 
following closely the retreating ioe without further orders. They encountered a 
fearful volley of grape and canuister from near thirty pieces of artillery and 
musketry from still well-filled rifle-pits on the summit, but not a waver was seen 
in all that loug line of brave men. The progress was steadily onward, until the 
summit was in their possession." 

Gen. Bragg gives the Confederate story thus : 

''About half-past 3 p. m. the immense force in front of our left and center 
advanced in three lines, preceded by heavy skirmishers. Our batteries opened 
with fine effect, and much confusion was produced before they reached musket 
range. In a short time the roar of musketry became very heavy, and it was 
soon apparent that the enemy was repulsed in my immediate front. While rid- 
ing along the crest congratulating the troops, intelligence reached me that our 
line was broken ou my right and the enemy had crowned the ridge." 

The Confederate Gen. D. H. Hill, commenting on those days, says : '' There 
was no more splendid fighting in '61, when the flower of the Southern youth 
was in the field, than was displayed in the bloody days of September, '63. But 
it seems to me that the elan of the Southern soldier was never seen after Chick- 
amauga — that brilliant dash which had distinguished him on a hundred fields 
was gone forever. He was too intelligent not to know that the cutting in two 
of Georgia meant death to all his hopes. He knew that Longstreet's absence 
was imperiling Lee's safety, and that what had to be done must be done quickly. 
The delay to strike was exasperating to him; the failure to strike after the suc- 
cess was crushing to all his longings for an independent South. He fought 
stoutly to the last, but, after Chickamauga, with the suUeuness of despair and 
without the enthusiasm of hope. That ' barren victory ' sealed the fate of the 
Southern Confederacy." 

A war correspondent, whose letters have been remodeled into a book, says of 
this battle, in the peculiar style of his class: 

*'The splendid march from the Federal line of battle to the crest was made 
in one hour and five minutes, but it was a grander march toward the end of 
carnage— a glorious campaign of sixty-five minutes toward the white borders of 
peace. It made that fleeting ]^ovember afternoon imperishable." 

The Confederates were more seriously afl"ected by the disaster of Missionary 
Ridge than had been the Federals by the defeat of Chickamauga. The depleted 
ranks of the Confederates could not be replenished, for there were no men left 
in the rear to draw from. The whole world was open to the recruiting persua- 
sions of the United States Government. 

"We do not doubt that the Almighty permitted the Confederacy to work out 
its defeat in the West through the incompetency of Gen. Bragg. At Perryville 
he lost the confidence of Hardee and Polk. Confidence was still lacking in 
wing, corps and division commanders at Murfreesboro. Chickamauga added to 
the general discontent, and then Missionary Ridge made forbearance a crime. 
Joseph E. Johnston came too late, but the retreat upon Atlanta has placed the 
name of Johnston next to that of Leo. Every true American soldier is proud 
of the valor of Thomas, Grant, Lee and .1"1 n^ton, and in their exalted moments 



AND Lookout Mountain. 



57 



forget to boast of which side they beloujxed to, and sincerely rejoice that they 
^re now citizens of a country that produced such men. 



CHICKAMAUGA NATIONAL PARK. 

On the 28th and 30th of April, 1889, Col. Kellogg, TJ. S. A., accompanied by 
Gens. Rosecrans, Reynolds, Wheeler, and other participants in the great battle 
of Chickamauga, visited the field to make accurate locations of troops, with a 
view to the establishment of a National Park. The veterans of both armies are 
deeply interested in this movement. 

Not only is it desirable that this Park should be established as an eternal 
memorial to American valor, and that tablets should be erected to commemorate 
special exhibitions of that valor, but the Government should establish there a 
Soldiers' ^ome, modeled after the one so successfully conducted at Dayton, 
Ohio. And into that Home might be admitted the disabled citizens who served 
in both armies. We say "might," because we know that such unselfish patriot- 
ism is impossible, inasmuch as the politicians, not the brave men who fought 
the battle on the Union side, would oppose such generosity. 

The writer religiously believes that if the matter was submitted to the vote 
of the Union soldiers — skulkers, bummers and camp followers excluded — the 
brave men who always bared their breasts to storm of Confederate hail, would 
unanimously vote to admit the disabled of their gallant enemy to the comforts 
and blessings of such a paradise. Aye, more ! They would vote the gathering 
of the ashes of their brave opponents who fell at Chickamauga, Chattanooga and 
Missionary Ridge, into the beautiful National Cemetery. But the brave veterans 
of the Union will never have the opportunity to so vote. 



SOME DISTANCES. 



The following table will be of interest to those who desire to study the move- 
ments of troops during the battles of Chattanooga, Chickamauga and Missionary 
Ridge: 

From Chattanooga to 



Orchard Knob 2 miles. 

Sherman Heights 5 " 

Rossville Gap 5 " 

Crawfish Spring 13 " 

Widow Glenn's House 10 " 

Kel ley's Ferry 12 " 

La Fayette 24^ '' 

Lookout Mountain (base) ... 2| " 



N"ational Cemeterv H miles. 

Boyce Station (old) 6 " 

McFarland's Gap 7 " 

Lee & Gordon Mill 12 " 

Snodgrass House 9^ ** 

Rincrgold 16" " 

Wauhatchee 6 " 

Brown's Ferry 5 ** 



From Rossville to 



Horseshoe Ridge 4 m 

Kelley'a House 4 4 



les. 



McAfee's Church 3 miles. 

Ringgold (via bridge) 12 " 



Historical Guide to Chattanooga 



From McFarland's Gap to 

"Widow Glenn's House 4 miles. 

Kelley's House 2f " 

Snodgrass House 2i " 



Lee & Gordon Mill 5| mile»» 

Crawfish Spring 7f '* 

Yidito's House l} " 



From Widow Glenn's House to 



McFarland's Gap 4 miles. 

Lee <fe Gordon Mill If " 

Crawfish Spring 3f " 

Chattanooga 10 ** 



Snodgrass House If milea 

Yidito's House J " 

Leet's Tan-yard i " 

Brotherton House f " 




AND Lookout Mountain. 69 



CHATTAIOGA AS A MANDFACTURING POIE 



It is now generally conceded that the " Chattanooga mineral district '* is on« 
of the richest in coal, iron and copper of this entire continent. The coal is very 
nearly free from sulphur, and cokes well ; the beds of iron ore are abundant, 
averaging from four to five feet in thickness, and the ores average fifty per cent 
of iron. The coal is adapted to the manufacture of the best quality of iron, and 
lies on the great layer of conglomerate rock of the lower carboniferous period, 
averaging five feet in thickness. The iron ore embraces brown hematite, or 
limonite, and fossiliferous red hematite, the latter crossed by great beds of lime- 
stone of the subcarboniferous period. 

For timber, the district draws on a forest that is tributary to Chattanooga by 
reason of 800 miles of railroad, and more than 1,000 miles of navigable waters, 
which penetrate it in every direction almost. There is every variety of wood 
indigenous to the climate of thirty-five degrees north latitude, and a few other 
varieties considered peculiar to the climate 1,000 miles north of us. There is an 
abundance of Norway pine, hemlock, black walnut, maple and wild cherry. 
There is also an abundant supply of yellow pine, together with white and yellow 
poplar, and perhaps the supply of oak is the largest of all. The hills are plenti- 
fully supplied with hickory, and not very far away is red cedar, and on all the 
ridges mountain laurel grows prolifically. There is also a reasonably good sup- 
ply of buckeye and wild cucumber. 

For the movement of raw material and the distribution of manufactures, 
Chattanooga's means of transportation are unsurpassed. This coming autumn 
the great water-way, the Tennessee River, will be relieved from the muscle 
shoals obstruction, thus opening to us water communication with all the ports 
of the world. At present there are seven railways, whose termini are in this 
city— the Western & Atlantic; the N'ashville, Chattanooga & St. Louis; the 
East Tennessee, Yirginia & Georgia; the Memphis & Charleston; the Cincinnati 
Southern; the Alabama Great Southern, and the Chattanooga, Rome & Colum- 
bus. If we read the signs correctly, two more trunk lines will be added before 
the close of 1890. 

In demonstration of Chattanooga's importance as a manufacturing point, we 
quote the lar{. er 

MAifUFACTORIES 

in operation on June 1, 1889, companies and firms : 

Blast Furnaces. 
Citico Furnace Company, Chattanooga Iron Company. 



60 Historical Guide to Chattanooga 

Rolling Mills. 
Lookout Iron Company. South Tredegar Iron Company. 

Roane Iron Company (temporarily suspended). 

Tanneries. 
Fayerweather & Ladew. Scholze Bro.'s Tannery. 

Foundries. 
Etna Foundry (G. W. Wheeland). Wagner's Foundry. 

CahilFs Foundry and Iron Works. Chattanooga Car Foundry Company. 

Chattanooga Pipe and Foundry Co. Phoenix Foundry Company. 

Machine Shops. 
Truxall & Dunnemeyer. Etna Machine "Works. 

Cahill Architectural Works. Meehan Brake Shoe Works. 

Chattanooga Machinery Company. 

Planing Mills, 
Loomis & Hart Manufacturing Co. Willingham Lumber Company. 

Duncan, Pytt &, Company. Seymour, Stratton & Company. 

Lookout Planing Mill. East Tennessee Manufacturing Co. 

Morrison Manufacturing Company, Hughes Lumber Company. 

Stove Factories. 
Chattanooga Stove Company. Snow Stove and Range Company. 

Gibson-Love Manufacturing Company. 

Iron and Yitrified Pipes. 
Chattanooga Iron Pipe Works. Montague's Clay Pipe Works. 

Chattanooga Clay Pipe Works. 

Furniture. 
Loomis & Hart Manufacturing Co. Temple & Shipp Furniture Company. 

Sundquist Manufacturing Company. Ristine & Co. Furniture Company. 

Wagon Factories. 

Fassnacht's Carriage and Wagon Factory. 

Agricultural Implements. 

Chattanooga Tool Works. Chattanooga Plow Works. 

Chattanooga Agricultural Works. 

Miscellaneous. 

Chattanooga Boiler Works. Cracker and Candy Factory. 

Fruit Canning Company. Big Spring Ice Company. 

Lookout Ice Factory and Storage. Lowe's Mineral Paint Mill. 

Chattanooga Medicine Company. Standard Scales Works. 

Vehicle Springs Company. Four Cigar Factories. 

Palmer's Artificial Stone Works. Chattanooga Marble and Stone Company. 

Troutt's Marble and Granite Yard. Stewart Electrical (Talc) Appliances. 



AND Lookout Mountain. 61 

As the supply of coal, iron and timber is practically inexhaustible, it is con- 
fidently predicted that Chattanooga will be one of the largest manufacturing 
cities of the country before the close of the century. 

The manufacturer who has an eye to economy (and what successful manu- 
facturer has not?) must be profoundly impressed with this valley's attractions. 
Not only is iron, coal and timber cheaper here than in the North, but the actual 
cost of running a factory is less. Here factories have to be heated not over 
three months in the year, with occasional demands during another month. At 
the North this heating period extends to six months, with occasional demands 
on the seventh. And this item of fuel enters into the calculations of the artizau 
and laborer, and into the personal expenses of the managers. There is a net 
saving of fifty per centum. 

The saving extends further to the artizan. The mild climate renders the 
heavy and expensive clothing of the North unwearable. Here is a large item of 
saving to the families of the workmen. Provisions are about as cheap as else- 
where. The items of saving arising out of balmy climate not only include fuel 
and clothing, but doctors' bills and medicines. Only the careless suflfer here 
from the unavoidable sicknesses of the North. 

The depleting eflFects of summer heat, common to the lower South, are not 
felt among the mountains that stand around Chattanooga. At times the sun 
comes down with scorching rays at midday, just as it comes down all over the 
Union, but the warm nights which deprive one of restful slumber do not average 
six per annum in any decade. This statement is based upon an experience ac- 
quired during a residence of eighteen years in this city of Chattanooga. See our 
article on ''Climate." 



Historical Guide to Chattanooga 



CITY GOVERNMENT. 



The city is divided into eight wards, the bonndaries of which are too irregulM 
for description in this Guide. 

The government is vested in a Mayor and Board of Aldermen (two from each 
of the eight wards), Recorder (or Police Judge), Auditor, Attorney, Engineer, 
Tax Assessor and Treasurer, and a Register of Yital Statistics. The Aldermen 
are organized into six committees : Finance, Streets and Sewers, Fire, Water 
and Lights, Health and Hospitals, Schools and Public Buildings, and Police and 
Prisons. 

The Board of Health is composed of the Mayor, the Chairman of Health and 
Hoispitals Committee, the City Physician, and a physician chosen by vote of the 
Board. 

The Police are under control of a Police Commission, consisting of two Dem- 
ocrats and one Republican, appointed by the Governor of the State. Each 
serves for three years, one going out each year. 

I:?"OTE— This special organization goes into effect Ifovember, 1889. The form 
at this writing (June 1, 1889) is a Mayor, Board of six Aldermen, Auditor, At- 
torney, Engineer, Physician, Treasurer and Tax Collector, and a Register of 
Yital Statistics. The Mayor is now Police Judge, 

WATER WORKS. 

The Pumping Station is near to the mouth of Citico Creek, and the daily 
capacity is 20,000,000 gallons. "Water is taken at a point 200 feet above Citico 
Creek, forced through the system of filters (eighteen in number) known as the 
"National," and sent into town in a twenty-inch main and in a sixteen-inch 
main. A reservoir is on the side of Missionary Ridge, at Ridgedale, which is 
182 feet above Market street, giving a pressure of seventy-fire pounds uniformly. 
The mains are about sixty miles in length. This is just double the length of the 
mains in the year 1886, and extensions are going on rapidly. There are 200 fire 
plugs. 

FIRE DEPARTMENT. 

Headquarters, W. Ninth street, corner of Poplar. 
Lookout No. 1, W. Ninth street, corner of Poplar. 
Carlisle No. 2, Montgomery avenue, corner of Cowart street. 
There are three steam fire-engines, four hose-reels, two hook and ladder 
trucks, 6,500 feet of hose, and three engine-houses. 



AND Lookout Mountain. 63 

Fire Alarm Telegraph. 

The Gamewell system is in use, with the necessary gongs, indicators, and 
thirty-two alarm boxes, located as follows : 

12. Georgia avenue and E. Fourth. 36. Boyce and Hooke. 

13. Douglas and Yine. 37. Lookout Engine-house. 

14. McCallie avenue and Houston. 4L Gilmer and Palmetto. 

15. Walnut and E. Seventh. 42. King and E. i^inth. 

16. Gilmer and E. 43. King and E. T. R. R. crossing. 

17. Poplar and Fifth. 45. Market and Eighth. 

21. Cedar and W. Sixth. 46. Georgia avenue and E. Ninth. 

23. Pine and W. Fourth. 51. Market and Union. 

24. Market and Second. 52. Whiteside and Aiken. 

25. Market and Fourth. 53. John and William. 

26. Market and Sixth. 54. Wason Car Works. 

27. Loomis & Hart's Mill. 56. Whiteside and Missionary avenue. 

31. Gillespie and East Terrace. 57. Hughes' Planing Mill. 

32. Roane Iron Company. 62. Carlile Eagine-house. 

34. Tannery. 121. Read House. 

35. College and Cravens. 

Keys can be found at the nearest houses to the boxes, and one is given to 
each police officer, and a few are given to responsible citizens. 

Gongs in engine-houses have indicators attached, and alarm signals will be 
understood as follows; When an alarm is given from box 36, the bell at the 
Lookout Engine-house will strike three slowly, and then after a pause it will 
strike six— thus : 1, 1, 1—1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1=36. This will be repeated three times, 
giving four signals for each call of fire. 

NEWSPAPERS. 

The Daily and Weekly Times. Published by The Times Printing Company. 
Office in Adams' Block, Eighth street. 

The Evening News. Published by Evening Kews Company. 

The Sunday Argus. Office on Seventh street. 

The Tradesman. A monthly devoted to manufactures, and published from 
the Times building. 

BANKS. 

First National, chartered 1866 capital, $200,000 

Third National, chartered 1881 capital, 250, 000 

Chattanooga National, chartered 1887 capital, 300,000 

City Savings, chartered 1886 capital, 200, 000 

The Peoples, chartered 1887 capital, 200,000 

Trust and Banking Company, chartered 1888 capital, 30, 000 

Chattanooga Savings, chartered 1889 capital, 50, 000 

Fourth National, chartered 1889 capital, 150,000 



64 



HiSTOKiCAL Guide to Chattanooga 




~ ~~JW^HDOl( Ma^miI, 



SOCIETIES. 

Masonic — Two lodges, one Chapter and a Commandery. 

Odd Fellows — Two lodges, and an Encampment. 

Knights of Pythias— Two lodges, Endowment Rank and Uniibrm Rank. 

United Workmen — One lodge, second Tuesdays. 

Royal Arcanum— One lodge, fourth Mondays. 

Legion of Honor — One council, first Mondays. 

Fraternal Legion — One camp, first Thursdays. 

Knights of Honor — One lodge, first Wednesdays. 

Catholic Knights— Branch No. 71, Sundays. 

Turn-Yerein— Meets every Sunday. 

Grand Army of Republic — Two posts. 

Confederate Yeterans— One camp. 



AND Lookout Mountain. 65 

TOTTNG Men's Christian Association — Rooms in Adams' Block. 
Chattanooga Medical Society — First Fridays. 
Hebrew Ladies' Benevolent Society— Call of president. 

Board of Trade. 
Rooms in Chamber of Commerce building, Market street. 

Chamber of Commerce. 
Hall upstairs, in Ko. — Market street, rear of building. 

Public Library. 
In same building with the Chamber of Commerce, front room. 

Orphans' Home. 
On Yiue sfe-eet. Conducted by the ladies of the Woman's Christian Associa- 
tion. 

Steele Orphans' Home. 

For colored orphans, on Strait street. Conducted by Mrs. Almira S. Steele, 
its founder. 

Associated Charities. 

Conducted by a board of trustees and a superintendent. Funds obtained 
from city and county governments chiefly. 

SOME IMPOETANT LAWS. 

The following laws are quoted with special reference to Tennessee : 

"A homestead in the possession of each head of a family, and the improve- 
ments thereon to the extent of $1,000, shall be exempt from sale under legal 
process during the life of such head of a, family; to inure to the benefit of the 
widow, shall be exempt during the minority of their children occupying the 
same ; nor shall the same be alienated without the joint consent of the husband 
and wife, when that relation exists. This exemption shall not operate against 
public taxes, nor debts contracted for the purchase money of such homestead or 
improvements thereon. 

'^ Married women owning a separate estate, settled upon them and for their 
separate use, can dispose of the same by will, deed, or otherwise, in as full and 
complete a manner as if she were unmarried. The property of the wife is not 
liable for the debts of the husband incurred before marriage. The same law is 
applicable to the husband. Money deposited in bank by a married woman is free 
from the claims of husbands or their creditors. 

"Under the revenue laws of Tennessee, all property owned in the State, ex- 
cepting $1,000 worth of personalty belonging to the heads of families, is subject 
to taxation for State and county purposes. The tax on property levied by 
the State is forty cents on the $100 worth, ten cents of which shall be for school 
purposes. Merchants pay ad valorem and privilege taxes, amounting to seventy 
cents on the $100 worth, ten cents of which is for free schools. Taxes are also 



65 Historical Guide to Chattanooga 

levied npon a great number of privileges and upon polls, the poll-tax being 
applied to school purposes. The county courts are authorized to levy taxes for 
general county purposes not to exceed the State tax." 

Suits can be brought before a justice of the peace up to $500. Six per cent 
is the legal interest. If " usury" is proven, the entire interest is forfeited. 



HtSTOEIC POINTS. 

The stranger, especially if once a soldier, will find the following quite useful 



PLACES TO VISIT. 


HOW TO REACH THEM. 


WHERE TO GET ON. 


i 

< 


Battle Above the Clouds 


Incline and Broad Gauge R'ys. 
Chatta., Rome & Col. Railway. 
Hacks and on foot 


Horse Cars and U. P. Depot 
Central Station 


0.25 
'>f> 


Confederate Cemetery . . 

Crawfish Springs 

Cameron Hill 




:.•: 


Chatta., Rome & Col. Railway. 
HacJis an d on foot 


Central Station 


35 




* 






Nuby Street Depot 


05 






Union Passenger Depot 

Horse Cars and Union R'y. 

From Broad Street out 

Nuby Street Depot 

Nuby Street Depot. 

Union Passenger Depot. . . . 
Horse Cars and Union R'y. 


n •>5 


Lookout Mountain 

Missionary Ridge 

National Cemetery 


Incline and Nar. Gauge R'ys. . . 


0.25 
05 


Union Railway 


05 




05 


Sherman Heights 

Sunset Rock 


East Tenn., Va. & Ga. Railway. 
Incline and Nar. Gauge R'ys. . 


0.25 
?5 







-*Make contracts with hackmen. Usual charge, one dollar an hour. 



LANDMARKS OF WAR TIMES. 

Headquarters Gen. Rosecrans. Fow 316 "Walnut street. 
Headquarters Gen. Bragg. "Brabson House," now 407 E. Fifth. 
Headquarters Grant, Thomas, Sherman. Now 110 Walnut street. 
Headquarters Gen. D. H. Hill. Now 603 Pine street. 
Headquarters Gen. Brannan. S. E. cor. Third and Walnut streets. 
Old War Prison (both armies). S. W. cor. Fourth and Market. 
Fort Wood. East City; rapidly being covered with dwellings. 
Fort IsTegley. Rear of Stanton House; houses going up there. 
Fort Sherman, then ''Brabson Hill." Fifth and Lindsay streets. 
Fort Cameron. Traces of fort and magazine still on Cameron Hill. 
Signal Point. Walden's Ridge, southern projection. 
Signal Rock. Lookout Mountain, near to "Point." 
Crutchfield House. Read House built on site. 
Planters Hotel. Wisdom House built on site. 
American Hotel. Bottling house, 826 Broad street. 
Kaylojr Hall, Through alley between 819 and 821 Market street. 



AND Lookout Mountain. 67 



EVENTS OF 1880. 



This edition of 5,000 copies of the "Guide to Chattanooga" goes to press 
July 1, 1889, while preparations are being made to •welcome — 

1. THE NATIONAL EDUCATIONAL ASSOCIATION. 

This Association, composed of the Educators of the United States, will assem- 
ble in ISTashville, Tenn., on July 16, and remain in session during three days. 
They will come to Chattanooga as excursionists, the Nashville & Chattanooga 
Railroad running special trains at very low rates. 

Twenty-eight committees have been organized to escort those teachers to his- 
toric points ia the environs, and to make them feel that Chattanooga is honored 
by their visit. Beyond doubt, the warm weather and the crowded condition oi" 
cars and hostelries will cause some to murmur, even in the midst of our sublime 
scenery, but ninety per centum of those devoted men and charming women will 
return to their homes, all over the Union, pleased and edified by their visit to 
our City of the Mountains. They will know us better, and, may we not hope, 
will like us the better for their seeing us in the flesh. Will it be too much to 
prophesy that these teachers will say to their students : 

"If these Southrons do not truly love us, 
And err in ignorance and not in cunning, 
Then we have no judgment of honest faces." 

In the native language of his own green Isle of the Ocean the writer of these 
lines says in true heartiness, Cead miUe falthe! 

2. THE SOCIETY OF THE AEMY OP THE CUMBEELAND. 

This Society visits ns again this year, on "Chickamauga Days," September 
19, 20. They came to us once before, in 1881, the history of which visit is given 
elsewhere in this "Guide." ^ ^ ^^ . . 

The writer of these lines organized a Society of ex- Confederates to greet those 
gallant visitors in 1881, and a "Camp" of the Confederate Yeteraus will welcome 
them just as heartily next September. _ ^ ^ ^, 

Every arrangement is being made for the comfort and entertamment of the 
Veterans who fought on both sides at Chickamauga and at Missionary Ridge. 
At no point in the Union could this reunion and commingling be as thorough, 
hearty, and sincere as at Chattanooga. Here partisans forget their folly, and 
biffots deny their former narrowness with shamefacedness. In Chattanooga our 
chiefest boast is, WE ARE AMERICAN CITIZENS! 

Gentlemen of the Society of the Army of the Cumberland, and of the various 
Confederate Associations, we greet thee. Silver and gold have we little, but we 
have hearts that are big, and a welcome that ever smiles. Chattanooga boasts 
as liberal, active, hospitable, and unselfish a population as any town on the 
American continent. Gladly do we welcome all good people from every section 
of the civilized globe who come to our city to make an honest living, and acquire 
a fortune by honorable means. If you like us, cast your lot in with us, and 
grow old, rich and happy with the rest of us ! And, in the spirit of Shakspeare'a 
Simonides, "To say YOU are welcome would be superfluous." 



G8 Historical Guide to Chattakooqa 



IMPORTANT INFORMATION. 



Readers of this Guide will file it away for reCerence because of the informa- 
tion it contains. 

LEGAL HOLIDAYS. 

ISTew Tear's Day — January 1st is a legal holiday in all the States except 
Arkansas, Delaware, Massachusetts, New Hampshire and Rbode Island. 

"Washington's Birthday — February 22d is a legal holiday in all the States 
but Arkansas, Florida, Illinois, Indiana, Iowa, Kansas, Mississippi, Oregon and 
Tennessee. 

Independence Day— July 4th is a legal holiday in all the States and Terri- 
tories. 

Christmas Day — December 25 is a legal holiday in all the States and Terri- 
tories. 

STATUTE OF LIMITATIONS. 

In Tennessee, actions must be brought within years as follows : 
For assault, slander, injuries, etc., within one year. 
For open accounts, within six years. 
For promissory notes, within six years. 
For revival of judgments, within twenty years. 

TAX ON COMMERCIAL TRAVELERS. 

The following is a list of places and amount of taxation on commercial trav- 
elers: Alabama, $15.50 per year; Arizona, $200 per year; Beaufort, S. C, $10 
per visit; Bennettsville, S. 0., $1 per visit; Batesburg, S. C, 75 cents per day; 
Charleston, S. C, $ld*per month; Cumberland, Md., $1 per day; Delaware, $25 
per year; Deadwood, D. T., $5 per week; Darlington, S. C, $1; East St. Louis, 
$2 per day; Blkton, Md., per cent on stock carried; Florida, $25 per year; Hart- 
well, Ga., $5 per trip; Johnston, S. C, 50 cents per day; Lewistown, Idaho, $5 
per trip; Montana, $100 per year for each county; Memphis, Teun., $10 per 
week or $25 per month; Mobile, Ala., $3 per day or $7 a week; Natchez, Miss., 
25 cents per day; New Orleans, La., $50 per year; Newport, Ky., $1 per month; 
North Carolina, $100 per year; Nevada, $100 per year; Orangeburg, S. C, $2 
per day; St. Matthews, S. C, $1 per day; San Francisco, Cal., $25 per quarter; 
Texas, $35 a year; Tucson, Arizona, $50 per quarter; Tombstone, Arizona, $10 
per day; Virginia, $75 per year; Wilmington, N. C, $3 per day; "Washington, 
D. C.,' $200 per year; Walhalla, S. C, $1 per day. 



AND Lookout Mountain. 69 

SOME POSTAL FACTS. 

Post-offices in Tennessee June 30, 1889 2,102 

Post-offices in Tennessee of first class 4 

(1) l!^ashville, salary of postmaster $3,400 

. (2) Memphis, " " 3,400 

(3) Chattanooga, " " 3,100 

(4) Knoxville, '* " 3,000 

Kates of Postage. 

Letters. — Prepaid by stamps, 2 cents each ounce or fraction thereof to all 
parts of the United States and Canada; forwarded to another post-office without 
charge on request of the person addressed ; if not called for, returned to the 
writer free, if indorsed with that request. For registering letters the charge is 
10 cents additional. Drop letters at letter-carrier offices, 2 cents per ounce or 
fraction thereof; at other offices, 1 cent per ounce or fraction thereof. 

Second Class Matter. — Periodicals issued at regular intervals— at least four 
times a year — and having a regular list of subscribers, with supplement, sample 
copies, 1 cent a pound; periodicals, other than weekly, if delivered by letter- 
carrier, 1 cent each; if over 2 ounces, 2 cents each. "When sent by other than 
publishers, for 4 ounces or less, 1 cent. 

Third Class Matter (not exceeding 4 pounds). — Printed matter, books, proof- 
sheets (corrected or uncorrected), unsealed circulars, inclosed so as to admit of 
easy inspection without cutting cords or wrapper, 1 cent for each 2 ounces. 

Fourth Class Matter. — i^ot exceeding 4 pounds, embracing merchandise and 
samples, excluding liquids, poisons, greasy, inflammable or explosive articles, 
live animals, insects, etc., 1 cent an ounce. Postage to Canada and British 
North American States, 2 cents per ounce; must be prepaid; otherwise, 6 cents. 



MATTERS OF BUSINESS. 

Promissory Notes. — A note dated on Sunday is void. A note obtained by 
fraud, or from one intoxicated, is void. If a note be lost or stolen, it does not 
release the maker, he must pay it. An endorser of a note is exempt from liabil- 
ity, if not served with notice of its dishonor within twenty-four hours of its non 
payment. A note by a minor is void. Notes bear interest only when so stated. 
Principals are responsible for their agents. Each individual in partnership is 
responsible for the whole amount of the debts of the firm. 

Letters of Kecommendation should be given cautiously. They should 
be both clear and candid. If a party is not worthy of a commendation, do not 
seem to commend by ambiguous phrases. A party may be commended for one 
quality, and not for others. Say what you mean or say nothing. 



70 



Historical Guide to Chattanooga 



FOREIGN CITIES. 

The following tables will be valuable to thousands who keep this Guide to 
Chattanooga convenient for reference. Postage given is for letters weighing 
half an ounce or less. Mileage is via New York. 

Distances from Chattanooga 



To 



Alexandria 

Antwerp 

Appinwall 

Athens 

Barbadoes 

Berliu 

Bombay 

Bordeaux 

Bremen 

Brussells 

Buenos Ayres.. . 

Cape Town 

Calcutta 

Constantinople . . 

Dublin 

Frankfort 

Geneva 



S 



850 
700 
005 
380 
840 
085 
465 
082 
035 
670 
725 
940 
815 
510 
,010 
950 
105 



+j 


to 






'^g 


•+3 


ee 2 


O 


OH 


Cm 


16 


5 


13 


5 


10 


5 


16 


5 


10 


5 


12 


5 


29 


5 


12 


5 


12 


5 


12 


5 


4 


5 


30 


15 


30 


5 


16 


5 


9 


5 


12 


5 


12 


5 



To 



Gibraltar . . . 

Glasgow 

Hagae 

Havana 

Havre 

London 

Mexico City 

Paris 

Rome 

*Shanghai ., 

Suez , 

Yera Cruz . 

Yenice 

Yieuna 

*Yalparaiso 
^Yokohama 
Zurich 



5,850 
4,070 
4.645 
2,100 
4,630 
4,405 
2,036 
4,700 
5,704 
10,700 
7,000 
3,200 
5,450 
5,420 
6,600 
9,400 
5,150 






15 
12 
12 

5 
10 
10 

5 
10 
13 
36 
17 
13 
14 
12 
20 
28 
13 



*Via San Francisco. 



Distances from Chattanooga 



To 



Atlanta, Ga 

Baltimore, Md... 

Boston, Mass 

Cincinnati, Ohio . 

Chicago, 111 

Indianapolis, Ind 
Louisville, Ky ... 
Memphis, Tenn.. 
Nashville, Tenn.. 
New Orleans, La. 
New York, N. Y . 
Omaha, Neb 



Miles. 


Fare. 


138 


$ 3 00 


665 


17 70 


1070 


27 50 


335 


9 75 


599 


17 00 


445 


12 85 


336 


9 10 


310 


9 30 


151 


4 55 


491 


14 75 


853 


23 00 


882 


25 50 



To 



Philadelphia, Pa. . 

Pittsburgh, Pa 

Richmond, Ya 

San Francisco, Cal 

St. Louis, Mo 

St. Paul, Minn 

Washington, D. C. 
Hamilton, Cauada. 
Montreal, Canada. 
Toronto, Canada. . 
Quebec, Canada... 
Ottawa, Canada... 



Miles. 



763 
648 
592 

2736 
468 
970 
625 
835 

1211 
875 

1383 

1058 



Letters of Friendship should receive more care and thought than is gen- 
erally accorded them. They should be answered promptly, and good taste 
should dictate the measure of freedom or formality to be observed in them. 



AND Lookout Mountain. 



71 



HEALTH. 

Summer Complaints. — In addition to ordinary prudence in diet and drink, 
especial care should be taken as to the quality of drinking water used. If not 
known to be absolutely pare, add a teaspoonful of aromatic sulphuric acid (elixir 
of vitriol) to one quart of water. Epidemics of cholera have been arrested, when 
every other means failed, by using water thus ascidulated. It may be flavored 
with lemons and sweetened. There is good reason for believing that the cholera 
poison is absolutely destroyed by mineral acids. It would be well, therefore, to 
confine the drink exclusively to this mineral-acid lemonade so long as there is 
any danger of cholera. If o other single precaution is of so much importance as 
this. 

Contagious Diseases.— It will often relieve a mother^s anxiety to know how 
long after a child has been exposed to a contagious disease that there is danger 
the disease has been contracted. The following table gives the period of incuba- 
tion — or anxious period — and other information concerning the more important 
diseases: 



Disease. 


Symptoms 
usually 
appear 


Anxious 

period 

rauges from 


Patient is Infectious 


Chicken-pox 

Diphtheria 


On 11th day 
" 2d " 
" 14th " 
" 19th " 
" 14th " 
" 4th " 
" 12th " 
" 21st " 
" 14th " 


10-18 days. 
2-5 " 
10-14 " 
16-24 " 
12-20 " 
1- 7 " 
1-14 " 
1-28 " 
7-14 " 


Until all scabs have fallen off. 

14 days after disappearance of membrane 
-Until scaling and cough have ceased. 

14 days from commencement. 

10 to 14 days from commencement. 

Until all scaling has ceased. 

Until all scabs have fallen oflF. 

Until diarrhoea ceases. 
tSix weeks from beginning to whoop. 


Measles 


Mumps 


Rotheln 


Scarlet Fever 

Small-pox 


Typhoid Fever 

Whooping-cough .... 



=-=In measles the patient is infectious three days before the eruption appears, 
fin whooping-cough the patient is infectious" during the primary cough, which may be 
three weeks before the whooping begins. 

Burns and Scalds. — Dust the parts with bicarbonate of soda, or wet with 
water in which as much of the soda has been placed as can be dissolved. When 
the burns are so severe that the skin is broken and blisters raised, open the blis- 
ters at one side and swathe the parts with soft linen anointed with simple cerate 
or saturated with sweet oil, castor oil or equal parts of linseed oil and lime water^ 
Burns from acids should be well washed with water. Burns from caustic alkalies 
should be well washed with vinegar and water. When a person's clothing is on 
fire he should quickly lie down and be wrapped in carpet or something else that 
will smother the flame. 

Sunstroke. — Treat this by removing the clothing, applying ice to the head 
and armpits until the high temperature is lowered and consciousness returns, 
when it should be discontinued until a rising temperature again calls for it. A 
cold bath of iced water may be very beneficial. 

Hemorrhage from the ISTose may be stopped generally by snuffing up the 
nose i=alt and water, alum and water, or vinegar, or by applying ice between the 
shoulders, or at the back of the neck. Keep head raised. 



72 Historical Guide to Ouattanooga 



CHATTANOOGA AS A HOME. 



I cannot better close this little pamphlet than with a candid statement of a 
few of the surroundings of Chattanooga as a place of residence: 

1. We have a balmy climate, not too hot in summer nor too cold in winter. 
Thermometer rarely rises above 90° or descends to 0°. Every month is pleas- 
ant except August. 

2. We have mountain tops and valleys quickly reached by steam and electric 
trant^portation. These make removal to summer resorts unnecessary, and pro- 
vide dry, healthful homes for consumptives. 

3. We have good water, good sewerage, good schools, good fire department, 
good system of "police, and a very energetic, pushing, reasonably moral popula- 
tion. 

4. Chattanooga is the terminus of seven trunk lines of railway; has a belt 
system that connects all the railways with the factories, and reaches all the 
valley suburbs ; has lines of railway to the summits of Lookout Mountain and 
Missionary Ridge, and has twenty-five miles of horse car railway. 

5. Has over one hundred manufactories in successful operation, being con- 
venient to iron, coal and timber. 

6. Chattanooga has increased in population from 6,000 in 1870 to 50,000 in 
1889. The increase has been remarkable during the past three years. In 188C 
we had 29,000 ; in 1889 we have 50,000. 

7. The Tennessee will be navigable from its mouth to Chattanooga by Decem- 
ber 25, 1889, thus connecting the city by water with the Mississippi, the Ohio 
and the Cumberland, Then Chattanooga will have water connection with New 
Orleans, St. Louis, St. Paul, Cincinnati, Pittsburg and hundreds of smaller 
places. 

8. We have good streets, the main ones laid with asphalt, Belgian blocks and 
creosoted bricks. They are wide and straight. 

9. We have successful electric light plants, both arc and incandescent, and 
our main streets are lighted by electricity. 

10. We have large and handsome church edifices, and enough of them to sat- 
isfy the religious peculiarities of all our citizens, 

11. We have all of the popular secret societies, in full operation. All are 
reported in a prosperous condition. 

12. Our population is made up of Northerners and Southerners, the former 
chiefly manufacturers, the latter wholesale and retail merchants. They are 
about equal in number, energy, enterprise and integrity. 

These are the inducements, gentle reader, to cast in your lot with us. We 
do not deal in adjectives or expletives, merely recite the unadorned facts. To 
be sure, all people are not equally well pleased with us, but it is a fact that 
ninety per centum of those who in the past removed from Chattanooga in the 
hope of bettering their condition have returned to us. 

Come and see for yourself. Make due allowance for home attachments and 
natural prejudices. Everything you see will not comport with your ideas, no 
doubt, but, in the aggregate, you will find Chattanooga to be one of the best 
places to live in you have visited in any part of the Union. 



eONNORS GUIDE 



i.-tx^vf*™'" ■« ■% 



TO 



^i*>, 



J J 



rsta'-jliMiJyna 



\ 




The point -e-ATT^ErABOVE THE f.lC--' - '-'C^ ACIN uTn^^ 



BATTLE FIELDS, 




^HATTANQQGA/fiBIU 



oj Cojfo 



